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JUNGFRAU AVALANCHES.

party on mules: they proved to be Sir R. C-, Lady and Miss C-. While resting for a little at a chalêt, opposite to the snowy bosom of the Jungfrau, and trying a mixture of kircherwasser and milk, the former execrable, my friend expressed a wish to see an avalanche, and scarcely were the words out of his mouth, when with a crash that startled us, a vast one came streaming down on the valley. It seemed to fall in sundry channels, for every crevice in the cliffs appeared to give vent to the feathery mass:—we heard, and saw no less than six of these avalanches on our journey to Grindelwald.

When we stood on the heights by the Eiger, and looked on the valley of Grindelwald smiling in sunset, it appeared certainly a spot where human nature might love to fence itself from the distracting cares of a worldly existence. My companion amused himself by planning a life in such a nook, but I own it would not content me. "Decet omnes homines," &c., says Sallust, and I confess it my ambition to live not so much for myself as for posterity. The valley of Grindelwald, from the hamlets at Zweylütschennen, to the feet of the high mountains between the Cantons of Bern and Valais, is about four leagues in length; its breadth, however, does not exceed half a league: many beautiful glaciers cover the ravines of most of the mountains of Grindelwald; of these there are three principal. To the right is the grand Eiger, an

immense mass of bare rock; between this, and the Mettenberg is a glacier. This mountain forms a base from whence rise the towering ridges of Schreckhoerner, the peaks covered with ice, and snow. South-east is the Wetterhorn, whose broad brow entirely clothed in white, presents a majestic and noble appearance. Between the Wetter and Schreckhorners, is the glacier superior of Grindelwald, and on the Viescherhorn, the inferior. This mountain is near the Valais. At the Bear Inn, where we stopped, I found two brothers, Cornishmen; and having some London acquaintances from that country, we soon became intimate. As we had a long walk before us on the morrow, had completed a good one this day, we did not sit late.

and

CHAPTER XXI.

Ascent of the Faulhorn-Sublime view-Parties at the Châlet -Descent to Meyringen-Rosenlaui-Lines on the Auberge -Reichenbach Fall-Proceed to the Grimsel-Cataract at Handeck-Hospice-Glaciers of the Rhone-Visitors' Book -Promise of sport-Chamois hunting-Miraculous escape -Traverse the Glaciers-Mount Furca-Realp-Hospital -Mount St. Gothard-Reuss River-Andermatt-Gallery of Urnerloch-Ponts-du-Diable-Altorf-William TellFluelen-Lake of Waldstetten-Tell's Chapel-Separation Climb the Righi - A glimpse half-way-Crowded Hospice.

MEYRINGEN.

August, 8th.

Ar six o'clock we departed from Grindelwald to ascend the Faulhorn. The day, or rather morning, was lovely. After crossing some few fields near the village we commenced an ascent in good earnest. We passed right through a wood fringing the base of a mountain, and when we arrived at a considerable eminence the view was indeed splendid. The Wetterhorn lay opposite, the glacier sparkling in the sun, and the lofty

ASCENT OF THE FAULHORN.

81

aiguilles of the Shreck horn was sharply defined against the clear blue sky. Towering above all peered the Jungfrau, with the Mer de-glace descending into the glen,-the entire prospect reminding me much of the view of Mont Blanc and valley of Chamounix, seen from the Flégère. We made a short halt at a châlet on the Bachalp, to drink some milk, and were overtaken by a party on mules, whom we had outstripped in the ascent.

Again en route, we had some sharp mountain work, till we arrived on a plain, in which is a small lake, supplied, I suspect, by water flowing from the snow, which, in vast profusion, covers the mountain tops. We passed over many falls, and after five hours walking beheld the pyramidical head of the Faulhorn, with a comfortable auberge at the top of the zigzag approach. This was soon reached, and we gladly sought the interior of the chalêt.

It was occupied but by two persons-a French gentleman and his wife. With my usual-what shall I call it?-tact, or ingenuity, or impudence, I found out that they had a town house in the Fauxburg St. Germain, and another residence in the country. The lady kept a journal, and had been on a tour for three months in England, but spoke the language very little. She possessed much animation and courage. We had scarcely finished a repast, quite requisite after our fatigue, when the party en cheval rode up. They were

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PARTIES AT THE CHALET.

haute noblesse of my native land, but had not even a servant with them, though they intended to pass the night in the chalêt. I like much this casting aside the trappings of rank in nobility,-it shews an energy of mind which I suspect is rarely to be met with among the upper ranks. Had that sceptic in English good manners, who has lately written on this country, seen the ease and freedom that this party used in mingling with perfect strangers, I should think many of his prejudices would be worn away.

The prospect we enjoyed from the summit of the Faulhorn was considerably damped by thick mists, hanging over the lake of Brientz. We had, however, a tolerable view of the neighbouring mountains, from an elevation of 8020 feet; most of their names are already before the reader. The uncertainty of weather is a great drawback in this country, for it is very dispiriting not to obtain a good view, when you toil up to an eminence eight or nine thousand feet. Lord C- told me they had been equally unfortunate when on the Righi, where they passed a night to behold the sun rise, and lo! in the morning, there was no sun to be seen. We departed for Meyringen, by the grand Scheideck, about two o'clock.

We slid down over immense fields of snow, coming half way up the sides of the Faulhorn, with a rapidity which, I own, was not much to my taste. I got to the rocks as soon as possible, and