CANTONAL TROOPS.

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21st.

St. Gall, the capital of the Canton, is a good town. I visited this morning the cathedral, which I think superior to any church I have seen in Switzerland, that at Lausanne perhaps excepted. The organ is magnificent; the interior abounds with splendid pictures,-those in fresco by Moreto, especially the Adoration, are much esteemed. The barracks in the place of the cathedral are very fine. I have had here the opportunity of witnessing the Cantonal troops, as there is to be a review to-morrow. They were on the eve of marching to the scene of their display. I think the Swiss soldiers in general a finer body of men than the light French troops. The St. Gallians mustered strong, near two thousand,-went through their evolutions properly, and seemed complete in equipments.

There are here societies and schools for learning. L'Ecole Cantonale for the Catholics, with professors of theology, physics, mathematics, history, philosophy, geography, and ancient classics. In the Bibliothèque are many ancient manuscripts. Those of Tschudi, Meeleingenleid in the abbataile, and Joachim Watt in the bourgisse.

The King of Sweden is here at present.

CONSTANCE.

When I had finished my inspection of St. Gall, I started about twelve o'clock on foot for Con

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THOUGHTS BY THE WAY SIDE.

stance. The road runs through an extremely fertile country, with occasional glimpses of the lake, looking a vast veil of mist. After passing through several small villages, I approached its banks, by which the road winds for a considerable way. The distance from Saint Gall to Constance, I found more considerable than I had anticipated, and night hovered round when I was yet some leagues distant from my destination. The sun set with that sober, quiet light, purpling the horizon, which we so much admire in the pictures of Claude Lorraine ; and, as the yellow beams fell in long lines of colour on the amethyst-like waters, the mellow tones of a distant bell were wafted on the breeze to mine ear. A venerable tree spread his protecting branches above me, and the roots were covered by a grassy knoll; on which, having relieved myself of my pack, I sat down. While my external senses enjoyed the heavenly scene around, my internal feelings were far away in a distant land, and I rested in thought, by the side of my parents, looking from the heights of our own demesne on the same bright luminary, gilding with his departing rays the stream of our own river. The convent clock by the lake side striking the eighth hour, (for time had passed by unheedingly,) roused me; and buckling on my knapsack, I again pushed forward, and soon beheld the walls of Constance, on the brink of the lake. I passed by the bridge over the moated ditch, and, with no

slight fears as to my admission, entered the narrow wicket in the ample gateway. Constance, it seems, is part of the territory of the Grand Duke of Baden, and this was a signature I had omitted at Bern. The sentinel on duty demanded my passport, and having given it to him, we entered his bureau until he examined it. Whether the multiplicity of the visés confused him, or his own stupidity, I know not; but he merely asked me if I had been in Bern; I replied in the affirmative, when he said, 'twas "all right," and having written down my name, restored it to me. I had previously given a trifle for trinkgelt at the entrance. There was, however, another ordeal to go through, which I was not afraid of,-this was the Douane. I had traversed the silent street, leading from the gates to a suspicious-looking archway, where I was tapped on the back by a rough-moustachioed soldier, who commenced speaking German, with which language, my acquaintance is very slight indeed. I soon discovered his object was to inspect my effects, which did not take much time to do; and I was then permitted to pass, and hastened to establish myself in an hotel.

22nd.

Sunday.-Ringing of bells, singing of psalms, and the notes of an organ, all conjoined to rouse me from my couch, and I rose and had breakfast. The morning was wet; I went forth and visited the

churches. There are here three Catholic and one Reformed. The cathedral is a noble Gothic edifice, very ancient, and has a vast number of monuments. Many of the bishop-princes of Germany are buried here. The paintings of the side altar are very fine; those in fresco extremely well executed. The carvings both in wood and stone, are also very good. There is shown here the house in which the Reformer Huss, was arrested. Many of the door-ways of the private houses are richly carved.

I walked in the neighbourhood of the outlets, but could discover nothing interesting. The walls are regular, and have towers for their defence. The scenery by the lake-side is beautiful,-you behold this immense basin stretching away to Bohemia and Suabia; the lofty hills looking low in the horizon, and the banks variegated with houses and extensive convents.

CHAPTER XXIII.

Steamboat to Schaffhausen-Morning brightens-Shores of the Lake-Gottlieben-Banks of the Rhine-Schaffhausen -Visit the fall-Cross the river-Church-Roman fortress -English family-Old acquaintance-Diligence to Basle -Survey the town-Tomb of Erasmus-Works of Holbein -Autographs-Brief remarks on a Swiss tour.

Monday, 23rd

Ar half-past four I was aroused to be ready for the steamboat, and, at the hour of starting, duly on board the Helvetia, bound for Schaffhausen. The morning, which rose cloudily, was not yet quite clear; but jutting promontory and distant peak, were distinctly defined against the dim vapour. As the sun beamed forth the fog cleared up, and ere we had rounded the channel the view had improved much in light and beauty. The town of Constance lay rising from the water's edge, and within the limits of its line of wall, tower, and spire, might be seen stretching high above the sharp roofs of the houses. At a little distance on the lake side, is an extensive