gerated encomiums promulgated by most travellers, the present member of that class, on first entering Granada, felt considerably disappointed with the primary impressions he then received from various objects observed.

The streets through which the carriage passed were mostly meanlooking, with dilapidated houses, if judged from their outward aspect; while a dirty, not very amiably featured, population occupied doorways, or sides of thoroughfares, when sufficiently wide to permit them doing so with safety. The paving was very bad, and the Plaza del Triunfo traversed became so suffocatingly dusty, that any previous poetical imaginings about this famed locality were thereby, for the time, entirely dissipated, until entering afterwards the Carrera de Xenil, the public promenade, ornamented with trees and fountains, its umbrageous Alameda near the Darro river, besides the distant, but still snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountain range. Then, these varied and really most attractive objects, as likewise the whole surrounding scenery, again restored to the traveller's mind some of his former pleasurable anticipations.

Granada, so interesting to all foreigners, and hence frequently visited by admirers of Moorish antiquities, is now very different from its condition when under Arabian rule. At that period the city is reported to have contained four hundred thousand inhabitants. Now there are not one hundred thousand, according to reliable authorities. After the Moors were expelled, early in the fifteenth century-their capital having been conquered by Ferdinand and Isabella on the 2nd of January, 1492-this place has been continuously falling away from its previous splendour and magnificence; while, according to Mr. Ford, "it stagnates, at present, in bookless ignorance, has neither letters, arts, nor arms, that of cock-fighting excepted. Education is at its lowest ebb. The petty commerce is passive, and, like Cordova, from being an Athens under the Moors, it has become a Boeotia under the Spaniards." These are strong expressions. But that able author having had ample opportunities, during his long residence at the Alhambra, to form an opinion, such denunciations must be correct, and taken as true exponents of the modern condition of this favoured residence of the ancient Arabians in Spain. When Moors were masters, the surrounding Vega was considered superior in fertility to the valley of Damascus, and the numerous villas, then seen everywhere, were compared with Oriental pearls set in a cup of emeralds. In fact, this district was, like the Huerta of Valencia, esteemed by all Moorish inhabitants as another earthly paradise.

Numerous authors, both learned and ephemeral, having amply described this ancient Andalusian capital, its varied history, former magnitude, still interesting antiquities, and modern decadency, it seems superfluous to discuss at any length either questions which have been already often investigated, or to occupy time with details regarding objects frequently mentioned by previous travellers, who give full descriptions of everything worth examination, both in the city and neighbourhood.

The great attraction at Granada is, of course, the Alhambra; and if nothing else deserved notice, the most distant journey would be amply compensated by inspecting that magnificent Moorish palace, which was not only a royal residence, but an alcazar. However, that celebrated abode of luxurious kings is not the only place worth seeing, there being many other objects, both sacred and profane, which are also exceedingly interesting. Indeed, everywhere in Granada the tourist will find not

only relics of that extraordinary people who governed this part of Spain during many centuries, but likewise the remains of public buildings constructed by their successors; some of which possess many historical associations. Further, several charitable institutions yet exist well worthy of examination, having been founded by its early Christian sovereigns, more especially when Queen Isabella lived, who was the glory of her country, and one of the most beneficent rulers Spain ever possessed.

While alluding to this truly excellent woman, it is worthy of remark that frequently, during female reigns, greater renown is acquired by the country over which a queen rules, than where males occupy the throne. Take, for example, England's great queen, Elizabeth; Margaret, called the Semiramis of the North, and Queen of Scandinavia, who reigned towards the end of the fourteenth century; Maria Theresa, Queen of Hungary; Catherine II., Empress of Russia; and last, but certainly not least, the present beloved sovereign of Great Britain. Throughout the reigns of these female potentates, more beneficial measures to improve the condition of their subjects, and also to extend the fame and influence of their respective countries, have been enacted, than during many male sovereigns, however numerous. Even in Spain, by the present queen's government, many improvements have been accomplished, and more are likely to ensue, which never would have taken place had another Ferdinand VII. occupied her place. One explanation may be given of the superiority now noticed with reference to female sovereigns-namely, they have often the good sense to adopt sage advice of wise counsellors. Whereas, men frequently follow their own; and, if they are headstrong, ignorant, or foolish, hence become tyrants, if not injudicious governors.

Notwithstanding the just praise above expressed respecting Queen Isabella, bad measures were certainly sometimes carried into effect during her lifetime and that of Ferdinand. Thus, after the conquest of Granada, she sanctioned eight hundred thousand rich and industrious Jews being expelled from Spain, whose wealth and knowledge made them most valuable subjects. This cruel proceeding proved one of the first serious blows which was inflicted upon the Peninsula, and from that period it has been in a state of decadency, although now beginning to recover. Had Isabella survived her gloomy, bigoted husband, or had he died before her decease in 1504, many of the calamities inflicted on Moorish and Jewish Spaniards might never have been perpetrated; the queen being far more enlightened and humane than the narrow-minded Ferdinand.

Unlike most places whose intrinsic beauty and interesting features have been often so overpraised by travellers, or visitors who gave such full scope to their imaginations, that subsequent but more phlegmatic observers sometimes felt disappointed, the Alhambra, in place of appearing a less wonderful structure than the writer expected, fully realised his previously formed expectations; whether in reference to its unique character, architectural elegance, fairy appearance, or from being one of the few remaining specimens of Moorish artistic taste which can be now seen in Europe. Irrespective of that circumstance, from its fine commanding site, peculiar ornamentation-illustrating the domestic habits prevailing among a then highly cultivated race, but since driven forth to other regions and lastly, the rich magnificence everywhere prevailing, even to the most minute ap

pendage, this truly regal residence has never been overlauded; at least in the present critic's estimation. Nay, he considers the Alhambra more worthy of being visited than any other object whatever throughout the entire Peninsula. To give, however, any detailed description of what there comes under the eye of even the most incurious traveller, is impossible. Indeed, a volume might alone be filled without exhausting the subject; either in an artistic sense, or speaking historically. To judge correctly of its splendour and magnificence the precinct must be visited in detail, although a portion of the palace only remains, the greatest part having been destroyed by barbarians like Charles V., Emperor of Germany, and other subsequent Vandals, even down to very recent times. Fortunately, any further destruction has been arrested for some years past. Hence, the reigning queen deserves much credit in having sanctioned the restoration of what has escaped demolition, and also ordered it to be restored, wherever possible, to the condition in which this building existed, while occupied by Arabian potentates, her predecessors. When the present tourist visited the Alhambra, it was very satisfactory to see various workmen busy restoring and beautifying several apartments, in order that they might display their pristine magnificence. Moreover, he was still further gratified to hear that government proposed continuing various judicious embellishments, and especially to prevent any future vandalism being committed, either by native or foreign iconoclasts.

Whoever has seen the Alhambra Court in the London Crystal Palace, may thereby attain a very correct notion of the chief features, as also elegant proportion and most remarkable beauties of its original. But this only refers to the interior apartments and their ornamentation, not to the splendid yet varied prospects which may be obtained of Granada and its fertile Vega from different palace windows and miradors. At Sydenham that gratification is impossible. Another peculiarity of the Alhambra is the shabby, uninteresting exterior aspect it exhibits. To look at the palace from Granada, or any adjacent height, the spectator would almost conclude it was only a tumble-down, dilapidated convent, or some mass of old buildings, which might be occupied by animals, but never could have been the habitation of human beings, still less of sovereigns and imperious courtiers. However, this custom, or rather fashion, always prevailed among the Moors; they decorated their residences with the utmost magnificence interiorly, although plain outside, and often mean-looking. The same taste still prevails, even in modern Spain. For example, the palace of the Cardinal Archbishop of Toledo and Primate outwardly appeared more like an old barn than a dwelling for that high church dignitary; whereas, inside, it equals many royal abodes in Europe. When seen by the writer, during his sojourn at Toledo, he could scarcely believe any cardinal then lived within. The outer walls seemed as if about to fall; while the main carriage entrance was covered with dust, the door itself being apparently rotten, and much in need of fresh painting. Therefore, to know the true characteristics of ancient Moorish, and even of many Spanish buildings, the insides must be seen; as it is only then that observers can learn anything regarding the mode of life and manners of a people altogether different from most Europeans of the present century.

After making these general remarks respecting the Alhambra and Moorish residences of every description, a few glances, at least, must be

taken of the salient features which excite in a spectator's mind sensations of pleasure, if not admiration. The Court of the Lions is certainly the gem of the entire structure. It forms an oblong quadrilateral "patio," sixtysix feet broad by one hundred and sixteen long, having one hundred and forty-four slender white marble pillars, eleven feet in height, which support a portico on each side, with an elegant pavilion at both ends. În the centre, twelve lions support an alabaster basin, from whence a fountain occasionally plays; but when the Moors were masters, it did so in all directions. The more this court is examined, the greater will be the gratification it produces among amateurs of Saracenic architecture. The Ambassadors' Hall is quite of another character, although equally Moorish in its ornaments, but covered over, and has no columns. It is simply a square apartment, thirty-seven feet on each side, and seventyfive high in the centre, forming a dome outwardly, called the Tower of Comares. Being gorgeously ornamented throughout the interior, this royal reception-room still retains much of its former magnificence. The Hall of Justice, so called from having an assemblage of ten bearded Moors sitting in divan, and painted on the ceiling, is likewise justly admired. The saloon of the Abencerrages also constitutes a great object of interest. Besides which, that of the Two Sisters becomes equally interesting to the eyes of tourists. This latter appurtenance has been so named from two similar large slabs of marble set in its pavement. These, with several adjoining rooms, comprised the Moorish kings' private residence; and even now, from what remains, it may be judged how gorgeous must have been the entire suite they usually inhabited. Bath-rooms, places for reposing in afterwards, miradors to look out upon adjacent or distant objects, porticos for promenade, dressing-closets, and various other appendages, were all here provided, but too numerous to mention. In fact, a task of that kind would be endless.

Before taking leave of the Alhambra, the writer would, however, finally remark, that he has never spent any forenoon so usefully, or in such an agreeable occupation, as the several hours passed in that most interesting locality, where persons perambulating its various apartments almost believe they are then visiting some ancient Moorish potentate; nay, have even gone back several centuries in the world's existence. To those of poetic imaginations, such thoughts would almost appear realities, when visiting dwellings like the one in question. But the tourist who now describes his own sensations, being rather of a phlegmatic temperament, and not an enthusiast, may be the more likely believed, when speaking thus highly of the Moorish kings' Windsor Castle, seeing it did not disappoint his previously rather excited expectations, whether from reading the vivid accounts of other travellers, or hearing the eulogies expressed by friends in conversation. All that now remains to say on his part being, he hopes every future traveller who inspects the Alhambra experience equal gratification.

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After passing several hours on a second visit admiring the gorgeous remains of this still beautiful palace, but to which the writer has scarcely done justice in previous remarks, he ascended the ancient Moorish Torre de la Vela, from whence a splendid panoramic view of the surrounding rich Vega may be obtained, as also of the capital close adjoining. Taken as a whole, this fertile plain is inferior in beauty to the

Huerta of Valencia. It is extensive, while numerous quintas, villages, several convents, and some palaces, may be seen around. Still, the prospect thus afforded cannot be compared with that just named, which, on one side, had the Mediterranean, so refreshing to the eye in hot weather. Whereas clouds of dust, scorching sunshine, and, everywhere, arid-looking fields, only now presented themselves to the spectator's observation. Being the best point to obtain a correct notion of the city itself, visitors should always mount to the platform at its summit. Here Count Tendilla unfurled the flag of Castile on the surrender of Granada, which first announced to the Moorish population that the Christians had triumphed, and the Moorish rule was really at an end, after having continued nearly seven centuries. To commemorate that event, the bell, which long summoned Moslems to prayer, is now rung every January 2, it being the anniversary. On such festive occasions, the Alhambra is visited by crowds; when rumour says, few unmarried young ladies pass without striking the bell, which ensures them a husband, and a good one, in proportion to the noise they then make. At least, so believes the credulous peasantry. The gate of "Justicia" should likewise be noticed, as here the Sovereign dispensed judgment. But visitors ought especially to observe the figure of an open hand, chiselled in stone, over the outer horseshoelike arch; while above the inner arch that of a key is sculptured. Tradition said, when this key was grasped by the open hand on the outer arch, then Moslem dominion would terminate. However, that hand has never yet even touched the key, although Moorish rule has long since ceased in the Peninsula. But, like the influence ascribed to the Torre del Vela bell over maidens, any power of this key to keep out Christians has proved equally impotent.

The splendid palace built by the Emperor Charles V. likewise deserves a passing remark. It is a fine square building of considerable extent, and is really imposing. Being built on ground where a large portion of the Alhambra formerly stood, and which was purposely destroyed, the present structure consequently becomes a condemning monument of that sovereign's vandalism. Although commenced more than three hundred and thirty years ago, and workpeople were engaged upon the building during upwards of a century, it has never been finished or inhabited, unless by galley-slaves, who have since gone elsewhere. Hence, leaving this Græco-Roman palace tenantless, to record an emperor's folly, and the limited exchequer of a nation, in which many great projects are begun, but few ever terminated. Before bidding a final adieu to the Alhambra, one gratifying fact connected with its supervision should be mentionedviz. the public are not admitted on Sundays. In Catholic Spain, where the Sabbath always becomes a holiday, and places of profane amusements are then more frequented by pleasure-seeking spectators than in week days, such a regulation is highly creditable to government, while all must regret so good an example does not prevail more generally. But this step is a good beginning; and being so very different from proceedings elsewhere noticed, the present chronicler of passing events has therefore greater satisfaction in thus recording an arrangement in every way praiseworthy.

Next in importance, after the Alhambra, comes the cathedral. It is large and clumsy outside, of Græco-Roman architecture, having May-VOL. CXIX. NO. CCCCLXXIII.

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