A HOLIDAY TOUR IN SPAIN.

BY A PHYSICIAN.

GRANADA possesses several useful beneficent public establishments which will interest strangers. Besides the large general hospital and that for foundlings, there is likewise an asylum for orphans, each of which was visited by the writer. Being a physician, they all had considerable value in his estimation, particularly the medical school attached to the firstnamed institution. To these, however, he would add two other institutions, which not only to himself were most interesting, but to non-professional observers would likewise be esteemed worthy of more than a casual notice-namely, the Leper Hospital and Lunatic Asylum; both being founded by Queen Isabella after the Moslem expulsion. The latter, or Hospital de los Locos, is the most ancient receptacle for insane patients now existing throughout Europe, being instituted prior to Bethlehem Hospital in London, which ranks the second oldest public asylum for the same class of sufferers. Considering the period when this hospital was constructed at Granada, it is highly creditable to the royal foundress; and, for the period when first opened, must have been greatly in advance of the spirit of the age, as also popular notions regarding the insane, or their proper management. When visited by the writer, this ancient asylum contained one hundred and fifty-two male and sixty female lunatics; thus showing that insanity, here as elsewhere in Spain, prevails oftener among the former than the latter sex. The interior was clean, and, considering its antiquity, the arrangements were better than could be expected. The judicious separation of patients did not always prevail, while occupying and amusing them was of secondary moment; many being allowed to associate together, without making much attempt to alleviate their afflicting malady. Several were in strait-waistcoats, the most dangerous inmates being, however, kept separate from those more quietly disposed. As usual, the female patients appeared much more noisy and talkative than the male inmates.

Contrasted with analogous institutions in France or England, this hospital is far inferior. Nevertheless, considering how isolated the country has been from other parts of Europe during the present century, and the severe national trials, political as otherwise, she has passed through, foreign critics must not be too severe if, in the treatment of lunacy, Iberia has lately lagged behind more northern nations, and still less forget she set them a good example more than four centuries ago, which they showed for a long period of time little inclination to imitate. Indeed, it ought to be mentioned for the credit of Spain, that while other European nations did nothing towards the humane treatment of lunatics, an asylum for their protection was opened at Valencia in 1409, through the efforts of Friar Joffre, another at Saragossa in 1425, one at Valladolid in 1436, a fourth the same year at Sevilla, and a fifth at Toledo in 1483; thus showing they were then far in advance of other adjacent kingdoms. Until very recently, little progress has been made, but in this, as in other requirements, Spaniards are becoming awake; and it is now pro

posed to erect six large new asylums for the insane, according to modern principles. These will prove a great boon to suffering humanity, seeing the ratio throughout Spain is about one lunatic to every 1667 inhabitants; while it is a curious fact that men much oftener lose their senses than women, since it was recently found among 6851 demented patients, 4060, or nearly sixty per cent., were of the former sex; being, therefore, different from England, where females are oftener victims.

The other charitable institution already named, the Leper Hospital, is even more interesting to philanthropists, not only on account of its antiquity, but from being one of the few establishments of that kind now remaining, although during former ages common throughout Europe. At present the malady afflicting inmates of this receptacle has almost disappeared from every European country, excepting 'Spain, Greece, and Norway, where it still abounds.

When inspected by the physician who now speaks, this real lazarhouse contained fifty-three patients, exhibiting the various stages of leprosy mentioned by ancient medical writers, and so often alluded to in Scripture. Of these inmates thirty-nine were males, and only fourteen females; thereby showing this disease oftener attacks the former than the latter sex, which coincides with general experience. All ages seemed liable to its inroads; and after the malady had arrived at a certain stage, remedies proved utterly unavailing, the victims seldom living beyond eight or ten years, when true leprosy becomes developed. A very curious feature should, however, be mentioned, which characterises even the severest cases-namely, the contentment, and often happiness, the most afflicted sufferers expressed respecting their condition. The writer talked with several then labouring under the worst and cancerous-looking form of leprosy, who often were merry, and uttered no complaint. On asking one poor fellow, who seemed slowly but surely advancing towards his final home, how he felt, and if his condition was comfortable? gaily replied, "Why should he not be happy, having nothing to complain of, but much to make him contented and thankful ?" This incurable and hideous affection chiefly attacks residents near the sea-coast, very being natives of inland districts; Almeria, Motril, Malaga, and adjacent villages, supplying the greatest proportion, while few are natives of Granada or the neighbouring Vega.

few

That leprosy is still common in several districts of Spain is evident by a fact which Señor Alveiro recently communicated to the Madrid Academy of Medicine-viz. two hundred and eighty-four leper patients were ascertained to be alive during 1851, of whom one hundred and eightyeight were males, and ninety-six females, or one to three, in nine Spanish provinces, without reckoning many more, about whom no data had been procured, from other localities where they resided. But, prior to quitting this subject, it may be interesting for general readers to learn that the malady is not considered either hereditary or infectious; while it now invariably attacks the lower classes, or those who are poorly fed, live chiefly on mouldy grain or putrid fish, occupy insalubrious habitations, respire a marine malarious atmosphere, and otherwise are the victims of filth or wretchedness. In fact, although these influences act powerfully in its production, leprosy is truly an endemic malady, being analogous to ague, cretinism, and pellagra in nosological classification. Although very

common in Great Britain throughout ancient times, and even among the higher classes of society-as, for instance, King Robert the Bruce, who died of leprosy-the disease now seldom or ever attacks any indigenous person if he has never quitted his native country; the most recently recorded example being one Dr. Webster mentioned during a late meeting of the Royal Medical and Chirurgical Society, of a man whose death by that disease occurred in 1851 at Guy's Hospital. When readers remember St. James's Palace was first built as a leper-house, and that there existed formerly upwards of one hundred such institutions in England and Scotland-that of Sherburne, near Durham, even containing sixty-five inmates-whereas leprosy is rarely seen at present, better evidence can be scarcely adduced to demonstrate the improved physical state of the general population.

Among the numerous religious establishments of Granada, though many are now tenantless, or appropriated to secular purposes, the Carthusian convent, a little way into the country, ought to be visited. From the chapel-terrace a splendid view of the Vega and gorge of Muelin may be obtained, showing that holy friars, whatever might have been their designation, always had an eye to beautiful situations and physical comforts. There is nothing remarkable in the architecture of this extensive building, excepting the gorgeous ornaments and expensive materials employed in constructing the chapel. The great door leading from the convent into this sanctum is made of tortoiseshell, ivory, and cedarwood, all being exceedingly beautiful. The chapel itself is richly gilded, having many finely-carved stalls for the monks, while the presses for containing their clerical dresses, both in material and workmanship, were magnificent. Splendour and luxury forming the chief characteristics in this appendage to the habitation of parties who may have called themselves poor soldiers of Christ, but became, in reality, luxurious drones, often doing nothing. The corridor ought especially to be examined by every Englishman who may visit its precincts, as he will then learn some alleged facts in the history of his own country, respecting, which he was doubtlessly, till then, wholly ignorant.

On the walls of this enclosure there is a series of fresco-looking paintings, which pretend to represent the cruelties suffered by Carthusians during the reign of Henry VIII. in England. For instance, in one of these representations a friar has a spear thrust through his body. In another a man is felling a Carthusian with an axe. In a third, angels are rescuing several holy martyrs from their tormentors. One represents four monks dragged to execution, while three are hanging from a gibbet. Besides other representations which may be here observed, each equally absurd. They are, however, curious, and indicate with what kind of legends the followers of St. Bruno attempted to delude, if not themselves, at least others, whose minds they wished to enslave through false statements and superstition. The sanctuary also should not be forgotten, as here no expense seems to have been spared. Such a splendid collection of beautiful marble ornaments on every part is quite extraordinary, and seldom, if ever, seen elsewhere. The cabinets of cedar-wood, motherof-pearl, tortoiseshell, and other valuables, are really superb. Indeed, in no other part of Europe, unless at the Carthusian church near Pavia, in Lombardy, has the writer ever noticed anything at all analogous to this

convent of the same order of friars near Granada. But their glory has departed. The whole flock-about one hundred and twenty-having been expelled from this oft well-stocked fold, when all religious orders were suppressed in Spain. Solitude and desolation now reign everywhere. The garden lies waste; the refectory, dormitories, and every other appurtenance are no longer occupied. While the ample store-rooms, which formerly contained abundant provisions, being now empty, a colony of mice would likely starve in places which, during olden times, overflowed with abundance. But matters are now entirely changed in reference to lazy monks, as they have been all turned adrift, with the option of either becoming useful citizens at home, or of expatriating themselves to lands more congenial in their estimation.

Another convent also merits inspection, which has been recently converted to a more mundane purpose-viz. that of St. Jeronimo. It is now a cavalry barrack, where war-horses frequently caper over the handsome court that was formerly a promenade for spiritual soldiers of the Church militant. Besides the chief patio with circular arches, marble pillars, and Gothic balustrades-well worth seeing this building also contains several objects of interest; among which the sepulchre of the great captain deserves special notice. The tomb formerly contained the bones of that greatest of Spanish generals; but popular favour being sometimes fickle, the mob, which broke into this convent at its suppression in 1836, not only destroyed everything, but even scattered the warrior hero's mortal remains, and those of his wife, to the winds; while the French, during the Peninsular war, carried off Gonsalvo's sword, pulled down his banners, and so completed the ruin of this celebrated monument. Another convent, that of St. Domingo, has a fine colonnade in the court, and now forms the museum of Granada. It contains a number of pictures, but none of any great value. However, the place should be visited, if only to admire the figures of saints and apostles carved on its chapel stalls, which are very good, and of a superior description as works of manual artistic labour. Several other ecclesiastical remains, as also Moslem antiquities, deserve record; but to do so would require more time and space than are now at command, consequently they must be omitted; remarking nevertheless, that no locality throughout Spain is so interesting as this ancient Moorish capital, or so well deserves being inspected by foreigners, who always feel far more pleased with what they there see, than even the natives themselves. In the present critic's opinion, Granada, and especially its Alhambra, constitutes the sight of the entire Peninsula.

Although all the monasteries in Spain, which formerly formed the "habitat" of the now extinct genus "monk," are now empty, it may be interesting to English readers if informed that, in many Peninsula cities, the institutions for such inmates were numerous. For example, Malaga had 15 convents for men only; Barcelona 19, in which 1212 monks at one time resided; Ecija, 20; Valencia, 24; Toledo, 38; Salamanca, 39, where historians also counted eleven thousand virgins; Granada, 40; Cordoba, 44; Madrid, 66; and lastly, Sevilla, which contained not less than 84 before their suppression; the most magnificent in the latter city being the Franciscan. This superb convent had fifteen cloisters, and apartments for two hundred resident monks; many of these being both elegant and spacious. Like the Cartuja at Granada, all convents

are now without clerical occupants; and when it is considered that many of the useless residents of these palaces were connected with some of the first families in the country, turning out the drones from such hives of idleness was a great triumph, and has proved highly beneficial in its consequences. At the end of the last century, it is said eight thousand nine hundred and thirty-two monasteries existed throughout Spain, whose inmates were all condemned to celibacy; some having large revenues, as, for instance, that of San Lorenzo at the Escurial. That receptacle of idleness usually contained one hundred and sixty friars, and had an annual income of at least fifty thousand pounds, arising partly from lands, and partly from immense flocks of Merino sheep which they possessed. The fraternity, therefore, besides their other functions, being great graziers, were hence, in more ways than one, extensive wool-gatherers, as also fleecers of the community.

Analogous to most Spanish cities, Granada possesses its public promenades, in which the élite of society are accustomed "tomar el fresco"-to breathe the fresh air-towards nightfall. The Alameda has many umbrageous trees, which keep the foot and carriage-way under a deep shade; but it is little frequented, the Carrera de Xenil being the favourite rendezvous. On Sunday evening, about sunset, this place was crowded with well-dressed ladies in veils, carrying fans, attired as if going to a party, and enjoying the delightful evening breeze, or conversation, as if they were at a tertulia. The scene looked gay; and as several carriages, then containing fashionable-looking persons, and drawn by mules, were also present, the spectacle became pleasing; while the Sierra Nevada mountain-still capped with snow-being seen in the distance, at the same time that numerous fountains scattered their cool refreshing waters around, this promenade appeared, in some respects, superior to the Rambla at Barcelona. Close by is a church, which was then open. Here it seemed odd for female visitants to leave the Carrera and enter within, to say their evening prayers; as if they had not been so gaily engaged only a few minutes previously. Some remained only a short time, but others much longer; while several even made their devotions rather a serious affair, seeing that immediately the church threshold was passed, down they fell on their knees, and then slowly crawled along one side of the centre aisle, till they got opposite the high altar. There, prayers were muttered, a string of beads counted, and having devoutly crossed themselves, they now returned-but still crawling-by the opposite side towards the door; where, having dipped their fingers in holy water, and again crossed themselves, they returned to the promenade. This seemed a singular exhibition, although common in Spain; and as silence, with almost total darkness, from the want of candles, characterised the whole assemblage, it became very curious to see numerous black kneeling female figures sailing along the hard dirty stones in a line, like boats on a smooth lake. The effect thereby produced was ludicrous, and very different from solemn; at least in an Englishman's estimation. While to many fair votaries, thus using their bare knees instead of leather-shod feet, unpleasant consequences must have ensued, especially as the male part of the congregation frequently spat without ceremony; and Spanish saliva being always tainted with tobacco, the custom is more offensive. There