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order they were brought, and placed upon the table, while the lady-taster gave to each of the guard a mouthful to eat, of the particular dish he had brought for fear of any poison. During the time that this guard, which consists of the tallest and stoutest men that can be found in all England, being carefully selected for this service, were bringing dinner, twelve trumpets and two kettle-drums made the hall ring for half an hour together. At the end of all this ceremonial a number of unmarried ladies appeared, who, with particular solemnity, lifted the meat off the table, and conveyed it into the queen's inner and more private chamber, where, after she bad chosen for herself, the rest goes to the ladies of the court. The queen dines and sups alone with very few attendants." P. 36, 37.

The strict regularity and temperance which prevailed in the court of Elizabeth, were by no means characteristic of that of her successor, who, in his convivial moments, too often grossly transgressed the bounds of sobriety. When Christian IV., King of Denmark, visited England in July, 1606, the carousals at the palace were carried to a most extravagant height, and their influence on the higher ranks was such, that "our good English nobles," remarks Harrington, "whom I never could get to taste good liquor, now follow the fashion, and wallow in beastly delights. The ladies abandon their sobriety, and are seen to roll about in intoxication;" accusations which he fully substantiates whilst relating the following most ludicrous scene:—

"One day," says he, “a great feast was held, and, after dinner, the representation of Solomon his Temple, and the coming of the Queen of Sheba was made, or (as I may beiter say) was meant to have been made, before their Majesties, by device of the Earl of Salisbury and others. - But, alas! as all earthly thinges do fail to poor mortals in enjoyment, so did prove our presentmeti hereof. The Lady who did play the Queen's part, did carry most precious gifts to both their Majesties; but, forgetting the steppes arising to the canopy, overset her caskets into his Danish Majesties lap, and fell at his feet, tho I rather think it was in his face. Much was the hurry and confusion; cloths and napkins were at hand, to make all clean. His Majesty then got up and would dance with the Queen of Sheba; but he fell down and humbled himself before her, and was carried to an inner chamber and laid on a bed of state; which was not a little defiled with the presents of the Queen which had been bestowed on his garments; such as wine, cream, jelly, beverage, cakes, spices, and other good matters. The entertainment and show went forward, and most of the presenters went backward, or fell down; wine did so occupy their upper chambers. Now did appear, in rich dress, Hope, Faith, and Charity: Hope did assay to speak, but wine rendered her endeavours so feeble that she withdrew, and hoped the King would excuse her brevity Faith was then all alone, for I am certain she was not joyned with good works, and left the court in a staggering condition: Charity came to the King's feet, and seemed to cover the multitude of sins her sisters had committed; in some sorte she made obeysance and brought giftes, but said she would return home again, as there was no gift which heaven had not already given his Majesty. She then returned to Hope and Faith, who were both sick and spewing is the lower hall. Next came Victory, in bright armour, and presented a rich sword to the King, who did not accept it, but put it by with his hand; and by a strange medley of versification, did endeavour to make suit to the King. But Victory did not triumph long; for, after much lamentable utterance, she was led away like a silly captive, and laid to sleep in the outer steps of the anti-chamber. Now did Peace make entry, and strive to get foremoste to the King; but I grieve to tell how great wrath she did discover unto those of her attendants; and much contrary to her semblance, most rudely made war with her olive branch, and laid on the pates of those who did oppose her coming." The facetious Knight concludes his story by declaring that in our Queen S days I neer did see such lack of good order, discretion, and sobriety, as I have now done.”

We have already mentioned in Part the First, Chapter the Fifth of this work. that the usual hour of dinner, among the upper classes, was eleven o'clock in the forenoon; and though Harrison, in the passage which we last quoted from him, describes the provisions as often brought to the tables of the nobility served on silver, yet wooden trenchers for plates were still frequently to be found at the most sumptuous tables; thus Harrington in 1592, giving directions to his servants. orders, "that no man waite at the table without a trencher in his hand, except it be upon good cause, on pain of Id."†

Nuga Antiquæ, vol. i. p. 349–352.

+Ibid. p. 106.

To the silver, gilt plate, and cut glass of Harrison, may be added the use of china, an article of luxury to which the Clown in Measure for Measure thus alludes:-"Your honours have seen such dishes; they are not china dishes, but very good dishes." Act. ii. sc. 1. A considerable quantity of china or porcelain had been brought into this country, during the reign of Elizabeth, as part of the cargo of some captured Spanish carracks. It appears, also, that carpetcloth for tables was, towards the close of our period, dismissed for table linen, and that of a quality so fine, that Mrs. Otter, in Ben Jonson's "Silent Woman," which was first acted in 1609, laments having "stained a damask table-cloth, cost me eighteen pound." Act. iii. sc. 2.

With all these luxuries, the reader will be surprised to learn, that forks were not introduced into this country before 1611. Knives had been in general use since the year 1563, but for the former the fingers had been the sole substitute. The honour of this cleanly fashion, must be given to that singular traveller Thomas Coryat, who in his "Crudities" informs us, that he found forks common in Italy.

"Hereupon," says he, "I myself thought good to imitate the Italian fashion, by this forked cutting of meate, not only while I was in Italy, but also in Germany, and oftentimes in England since I came home; being once quipped for that frequent using of my forke, by a certaine learned gentleman, a familiar friend of mine, one M. Laurence Whitaker, who in his merry humour doubted not to call me at table Furcifer, only for using a forke at feeding, but for no other cause."

The utility of the practice was soon acknowledged, for we find Jonson, in 1614, speaking of their adoption in his "Devil Is An Ass," where Meercraft, having mentioned his "project of the forks," Sledge exclaims

"Forks? what be they?

Meer. The laudable use of forks,

Brought into custom here, as they are in Italy,
To th' sparing o' napkins."

Act v. sc. 4.

To the articles of provision enumerated by Harrison, we may add, that the bread of this period was of many various kinds, and sometimes peculiarly fine, especially that made at York.

"Bred," says a physician who wrote in 1572, "of divers graines, of divers formes, in divers places be used: -some in forme of manchet, used of the gentility: some of greate loves, as is usual among yeomanry, some betweene both, as with the franklings: some in forme of cakes, as at weddings: some rondes of hogs, as at upsittings: some simnels, cracknels, and bnns, as in the Lent some in brode cakes, as the oten cakes in Kendall on yrons: some on slate stones as in the hye peke some in frying pans as in Darbyshyre: some betwene yrons as wapons: some in round cakes as bysket for the ships. But these and all other the mayne bread of York excelleth, for that it is of the finest floure of the wheat well tempered, best baked, a patterne of all others the fineste." *

Dinners had attained a degree of epicurism which rival those of the present day; three courses, of which the second consisted of game, and the third of pastry, creams, and confections, together with a dessert, including marchpane a cake composed of filberts, almonds, pistacho-nuts, pine-kernels, sugar of roses, and flour), marmalades, pomegranates, oranges, citrons, apples, pears, raisins, dates, nuts, grapes, etc. etc., were common in the houses of the opulent, nor was any expense spared in procuring the most luxurious dainties. "Who will not admire," remarks an Essayist of this age, "our nice dames of London, who must have cherries at twenty shillings a pound, and pescods at five shillings a pecke, huske without pease? Yong rabbettes of a spanne, and chickens of an inch!" +

• “The benefit of the auncient Bathes of Buckstones, which cureth most greevous sicknesses, never hfore published: compiled by John Jones, Phisition. At the King's Mede nigh Darby. Aano salutis 1572, &c." bl. 1.-Vide Censura Literaria, vol. x. p. 277.

The Passions of the Minde. By Th. W. (Thomas Wright.) London, printed by V. S. for W. B. 1601, small 8vo.

To such a height, indeed, had sensuality in eating arisen among the courtiers of James the First, that Osborne, in his "Traditional Memorials" on the reign of that monarch, informs us,

"The Earl of Carlisle was one of the Quorum, that brought in the vanity of Ante-suppers not heard of in our forefathers time, and for ought I have read, or at least remember, unpractised by the most luxurious tyrants. The manner of which was, to have a board covered at the first entrance of the guests with dishes as high as a tall man could well reach, filled with the choicest and dearest viands sea and land could afford and all this once seen and having feasted the eyes of the invited, was in a manner thrown away, and fresh set on the same height; having only this advantage of the other, that it was hot. I cannot forget one of the attendants of the K. that at a feast, made by this monster in excess, eat to his single share a whole pie reckoned to my Lord at ten pounds.

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The extravagance and excess of refection with regard to eatables, must, however, we are sorry to say, yield to those which accompanied the use, or rather the abuse, of vinous liquors. The propensity of the English of his times to drunkenness, has been frequently commented on by Shakspeare; Iago, in reference to a drinking-catch which he had just sung, says, "I learned it in England, where (indeed) they are most potent in potting; your Dane, your German, and your swag-bellied Hollander,-Drink, ho!-are nothing to your English.

Cass. Is your Englishman so expert in his drinking?

Iago. Why, he drinks you, with facility, your Dane dead drunk; he sweats not to overthrow your Almain; he gives your Hollander a vomit, ere the next pottle can be filled;" (act ii. sc. 3.) a charge which seems to be confirmed by the sober testimony of Gascoigne.-"The Almaynes," he observes, "with their smale Rhenish wine, are contented; but we must have March beere, double beere, dagger ale, bracket, etc. Yea, wine itself is not sufficient, but sugar, lemons, and spices must be drowned thereinne!" Yet, it is but fair to subjoin, as an acknowledged fact, that we derived this vinosity, as Heywood terms it, from the Danes; "they," says he, "have made a profession thereof from antiquity, and are the first upon record that brought their wassel-bowles and elbowe-deep healthes into this land."

Of the consumption of wine a striking estimate may be formed, from part of a letter addressed by the Earl of Shrewsbury to the Marquis of Winchester and Sir Walter Mildmay, dated January, 1569:—

"It may please you to understaund," says His Lordship, "that whereas 1 have had a certen ordinary allowaunce of wine, amongs other noble men, for expenses in my howsehold, wout imposte; The charg's daily that I do nowe susteyn, and have done all this yere past, well knowen by reason of the Quene of Scotts, are so grete therein as I am compelled to be now a suter unt yow that ye woll please to have a friendlie considerac'on unto the necessitie of my large expenses. Truly two tonnes in a monthe have not hitherto sufficed ordinarily."

"This passage," observes Mr. Lodge, will serve to correct a vulgar error, relating to the consumption of wine in those days, which, instead of being less, appears to have been, at least in the houses of the great, even more considerable than that of the present time. The good people who tell us that Queen Elizabeth's Maids of Honour breakfasted on roast beef, generally add, that wine was then used in England as a medicine, for that it was sold only by the apothecaries. The latter assertion, though founded on a fact, seems to have led to a mistake in the former; for the word Apothecary, from the Greek Añobú×n, repositorium, is applicable to any shopkeeper, or warehouseman, and was probably once used in that general sense." +

It appears, however, from Decker's Tracts, that apothecaries, in the modern acceptation of the word, sold both wine and tobacco, and their shops formed the fashionable lounge of the day:-"here you must observe to know in what state tobacco is in town, better than the merchants; and to discourse of the apothe caries where it is to be sold; and to be able to speak of their wines, as readily as

The Works of Francis Osborn, Esq. 8vo. 9th edit. p. 475.

Illustrations of British History, &c., vol. ii. p. 27.

the apothecary himself reading the barbarous hand of a doctor."* "Some lie in ambush, to note what apothecary's shop he (the gallant) resorts to every morning."

The variety of wines in the days of Shakspeare has not since been exceeded, or, perhaps, even equalled. Harrison mentions fifty-six French wines, and thirtysix Spanish, Italian, etc., to which must be added several home-made wines, such as Ypoeras, Clarey, Braket, etc. etc., for which receipts may be found in Arnold's Chronicle.

Among the foreign wines used at this period, none have attracted so much notice, or so much controversy, as the celebrated beverage of Falstaff, Sack. Whether this was a dry or a sweet wine has been left undecided by the commentators, after much elaborate and contradictory disquisition. If we may repose, however, on the authority of Gervase Markham's "English Housewife," a book published very shortly after the death of Shakspeare, and probably written several years before that event, a book professing to contain "the opinions of the greatest Physicians," many years antecedent to the Dedication which includes this assertion, the question must be considered as finally settled. This author, in his fourth chapter, entitled, "The ordering, preserving, and helping of all sorts of Wines, and first of the choice of sweet Wines," opens the subject by declaring, that he had derived his knowledge on wines from a vintner "profest skilful in the trade," and he then immediately proceeds, addressing the housewife, to speak first of the election of sweet wines; "she must," says he, "be carefull that the Malmseys be full wines, pleasant, well hewed and fine: that Bastard be fat, and strong, if it be tawney it skils not: for the tawny Bastards be always the sweetest. Muscadine must be great, pleasant and strong with a sweet scent, and with Amber colour. Sack if it be Seres (as it should be) you shall know it by the mark of a cork burned on one side of the bung, and they be ever full gage, and so are other Sacks, and the longer they lye, the better they be." +

From this passage we learn three circumstances relative to Sack: 1stly, that Sack was a sweet wine; 2dly, that Seres, or Xeres, Sack, or what Shakspeare, in 1597, calls "a good sherris-sack," a wine manufactured at Xeres in Spain, was the most esteemed of its kind; and, 3dly, that other Sacks were in use in this Country. Still further light is thrown upon this topic in a subsequent page, where We are told, when enumerating the sweet wines in contradistinction to those of a sharp taste, that Sacks are of three species-" Your best Sacks are of Seres in Spain, your smaller of Galicia and Portugall, your strong Sacks are of the Islands of the Canaries, and of Malligo." It is, therefore, to be inferred, that, though all these Sacks were sweet, the sweetest, as well as the strongest, were the Canary and Malaga; next to these in saccharine impregnation, and best in flavour, the Aeres; and lastly, the weakest and least sweet, were the Galicia and Portugal. The conclusion we consequently draw from these premises is, that the SherrisSack of Falstaff was Spanish Xeres, a wine not dry, like our modern Sherry, Fut sweet, and though not so strong or so sweet as the Sacks brought from Canary and Malaga, superior in flavour to both.

It may be objected to this deduction, that if Sherris-Sack were a sweet wine, it would not have been necessary to add sugar to it, an article which Sir John ever mingled with his favourite potation. This will not prove valid, however, when we recollect that, in the first place, Xeres was not the sweetest of the Sacks, and, in the second, that in Shakspeare's time it was the custom to mix sugar with very species of wine; "gentlemen garrawse," observes Fynes Moryson, "only in wine, with which they mix sugar, which I never observed in any other place or kingdom to be used for that purpose. And because the taste of the English is thus delighted with sweetness, the wines in taverns (for I speak not of mer

* Gull's Horn-book, 1609 reprint, p 119, 120. English Housewife, p. 112, 113.

English Villanies, &c. first printed in 1616.
Ibid. p. 118.

chantes or gentlemen's cellars) are commonly mixed at the filling thereof, to make them pleasant." A similar partiality for sugar in wine is noticed by Paul Hentzner, as one of the peculiarities of the English; and from these passages Mr. Reed deduces the legitimate inference that the fondness of the English nation for sugar, at this epoch, was so great as to induce them to mix it even with sweet wines; "if," says he, "the English drank only rough wine with sugar, there appears nothing extraordinary, or worthy of particular notice.-The addition of sugar, even to sack, might, perhaps, to a taste habituated to sweets, operate only in a manner to improve the flavour of the wine."

We find also from Sir John's comments on his favourite liquor, that he added not only sugar, but a toast to it; that he had an insuperable aversion to its being mulled with eggs, vehemently exclaiming, "I'll no pullet-sperm in my brewage;" and that he abominated its sophistication with lime, declaring that "a coward is worse than a cup of sack with lime in it ;" an ingredient which the vintners used to increase its strength and durability.

To this deterioration, our witty Knight, as his convivial hours were usually spent in taverns, was, of course, peculiarly subject. Houses of this description were very numerous in our author's days, and, there is reason to think, fully as much frequented as are similar places in the present age. The Boar's Head Tavern in Eastcheap, and the Mermaid in Cornhill, immortalised in the writings of Shakspeare, Ben Jonson, and Fletcher, are enumerated in a long list of taverns given us in an old black-letter quarto, entitled "Newes from Bartholomew Fayre;" and to these we must add, as of equal poetical celebrity, the Tabard Inn or Tavern, noticed by Stowe, in 1598, as the most ancient in Southwark, and endeared to us as the "Hosterie" of the never-to-be-forgotten pilgrims, in that delightful work, the "Canterbury Tales" of Chaucer.

A tavern, says writer who lived in these times, and who published in 1628, "is the common consumption of the afternoon, and the murderer or maker-away of a rainy day. To give you the total reckoning of it; it is the busy man's recrea tion, the idle man's business, the melancholy man's sanctuary, the stranger's welcome, the inns-of-court man's entertainment, the scholar's kindness, and the citizen's curtesy. It is the study of sparkling wits, and a cup of canary their book." S

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At these places were regular ordinaries, which Decker tells us were of three kinds; namely, "an ordinary of the largest reckoning, whither most of your courtly gallants do resort;" a twelve-penny ordinary frequented by the justice of peace or young knight;" and a three-penny ordinary, "to which your London usurer, your stale batchelor, and your thrifty attorney do resort.'

From the same author we also learn, that it was usual in taverns, especially in the city, to send presents of wine from one room to another, as a complimentary

*

Itinerary, 1617. Part III. p. 152.

It appears, that Sack, in Shakspeare's time, was sold at eight-pence halfpenny a quart-for in Fa staff's Tavern-bill occurs the following item; "Sack, two gallons, 5s Sd."

The title-page of this curious poem is lost, but the passage alluded to, is as follows:

"There hath beene great sale and utterance of wine,
Besides beere and ale, and ipocras fine,

In every country, region, and nation;
Chefely at Billingsgate, at the Salutation,

And Bores Head, neere London Stone,

The Swan at Dowgate, a taverne well knowne,

The Miter in Cheape, and then the Bull Head,

And many like places that make noses red;

The Bores Head in old Fish-street, three Cranes in the Vintree,

And now of late St. Martin's in the Sentree;

The Wind-mill in Lothburry, the Ship at the Exchange,

King's Head in New Fish-streete, where roysters do range;

The Mermaid in Cornhill, Red Lion in the Strand,

Three Tuns Newgate Market, Old Fish-street at the Swan."

Earle's Microcosmography, reprint by Bliss, p. 39. 40.

** Gull's Horn-book, reprint by Nott, p. 109, 127, 128.

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