thick, each weighing from one to four pounds. The fruit of this plant is the main food of seven-tenths of the people, who are not opulent, in all parts of South America, where it thrives; it is more generally an article of transport and sale than any other in the country; every road presents mules laden with plantains; I have met fifty in one drove with no other lading; every pulpureia deals in them, and it composes the principal stock of the shop. The name of musa paradi siaca, is perhaps derived from some traditional prejudices, among which are the use of the leaves, as Milton describes them serving as garments for mother Eve in Paradise; another tradition is, that the sweet banana was itself the forbidden fruit, but whether emblematic from its shape, or what other allusion, cannot need inquiry. It is a mistake, also, that the tree is cut down to get at the fruit; that is not necessary, though it decays annually. These remarks are more than I intended; similar remarks as to the misnomer ficus would apply to every other tree so named.

We continued our march in this entangled, tiresome, and sultry valley, having the Coxede on our right for several miles, the thickets unsubdued concealing the river, and rank with the luxuriance of the cane and the palms, of which I discerned several date trees. Here I saw first a plant which rises only in a single leaf nearly as large as the banana, thence denominated the wild plantain; it is used for packing coffee, cacao, and other articles in bales. This digression, though not entirely called for, serves nevertheless to make better known some of the natural productions of Colombia.

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CHAPTER XV.

Enter a rich country-Baladera-Gamalatol-Santa Rosa-opulence and change of manners-Barquisimeto-wade the river-ascent-pious alcalde-remain in the street--exhibited two hours-relieved by a military man passing-Dr. F. Mullery-the commandant's quarters-who is absent-a present of fruit from the village opposite-Señor Lara-alcalde finishes his oraciones--and finds an un-christian like cause of offence-feel indisposed-notice of Barquisimeto-military depot at Santa Rosa-country adjacent-rich in productscommandant-malice of the pious alcalde-interview with the commandantand find him a warm friend--alcalde bites his thumb-anecdotes-shock of an earthquake—march 10th December-dismal plain-fit theatre for Milton, Virgil, or John Bunyan-Quibor-find a pure atmosphere-birds of plumage* and song-paroquets and cacao-the linnet of Europe here--the perfume of the locust blossom reveals its presence, yet unseen-Tucuyo-its river and rich valley-halt in the suburbs-a sombrero manufacturer-hospitality-enter the town-received in the commandant's quarters—his lady's kindness→→→ her orgeat-and medical treatment-visited by Dr. Leonardo, the friend of Dr. Mullery-he commends the lady's prescription, and why-visitors-travel carried in my hammock by peons.

OUR first place, after passing La Bocca de la Montaña, was Baladera, a small village engaged in cultivation; thence we proceeded to Gamalatol, and here was very perceptible more business and bustle than I had seen since we left the valley of Aragua; the route from the valley to the road was a continued but not a rapid ascent, and we began to feel the delight of a soft fanning breeze, while our track changed to a descent as we passed through the small hamlet, of La Murita by Restrajos to Caudares, from whence to the bed of the river Coxede, which here takes the name of Santa Rosa, the descent is more steep. It was a festival, and the young folks were displaying their finery, not a spurious shew, but, though gay in colours, and more like the fashions of other countries, the whole place gave evidence of more than usual industry, activity, and opulence. It was observed, as

we approached this place, that the children, even to the youngest, were clothed, and in a neat and tasty manner. Many young ladies, with their beaux, were dressed in silk of bright tints and in a most excellent taste; though there is no part of Colombia where the females are not remarkable for their small feet, of which I don't know why they should not be proud, and I suppose that it is in the same frank spirit they are not so coquettish as many young persons, who, with the same inclination to display, affect not to know it. The neatness of their silk shoes, laced in the sandal fashion, and the saucy breeze ascending from the adjacent river, displaying more of their silk stockings than they seemed to intend, could not but attract the eye of the traveller sauntering along, and he must be a stoic who could not afford a smile on perceiving the pleasant disorder of the pretty Señoritas; it would be a sort of miracle if they did not laugh too, on seeing, by the strangers' significant leer, that their confusion was understood. Indeed it was not possible but to admire their graceful and elastic gait, or to feel pretended resentment, when they sought to be revenged by laughing louder at the dusty wayworn figures that smiled at the wantonness of the breeze.

We had intended to see more of this lively place, but, on enquiry of a civil gentleman whom a touch of his hat led me to ask the distance to Barquisimeto, he pointed to it on an elevated platform not far from the bank of the river, on the opposite side. But he was not content with wordly civility, he invited us to halt and rest at his house, and welcome, and that we should find that place much more comfortable and agreeable than at the other side of the river; we were grateful and thanked him, though we declined, and he accompa nied us to the usual fording-place, and told us how to pass Our sergeant was, however, well acquainted with the ford, and we parted with this generously-disposed Colom.

over.

bian, who knew no more about us than that we appeared to be strangers.

The breadth of the bed of the Coxede, at this place, is nearly a mile across-perhaps the day's ride augmented the space, and presents a mass of rounded stones, none very small, and some of considerable size; the water, at this season, was low, and was divided into several narrow currents. The sergeant, as usual, led the van, and though the streams were sometimes strong and washed our stirrups ; but, having gained the left bank, we had now to ascend a steep slope, which had been cut since the earthquake, and which we all agreed could not be less than half a mile up to the plateau. There New Barquisimeto stood at some distance on our right, and while we made our way to the main street, the sergeant galloped off in search of the alcalde, and quarters. He found the alcalde's house, who was out on church affairs; we had therefore to wait; and we did wait for about two hours, seated on our mules, and cracking jokes at each other and at the ideas entertained by the crowd which gradually collected round us. It was the second occasion, on which civility and hospitality, every where else so voluntary and kind, was wanting; it was literally wanting; for our march had been rapid for three days past, and the inconvenience to which I was subjected by the fall at Valencia, rendered any other than a sitting position desirable; nor were my young companions indifferent to rest, though they made a joke of their entertainment at Barquisimeto. We enquired for a posada, there was none; we enquired for the military commandant, he was out of town; so we made merry with the prospect of lying in the street.

Were it not fit, that incidents such as occurred here, should not be unknown to others who may travel in the same track, I should pass over the folly and disregard of the character of his country, and even his town, exhibited by the

alcalde of Barquisimeto. Our sergeant followed this pious magistrate to church, and made such intimations as he supposed likely to prevail; but his answer was "they must wait." We had no alternative but to wait; as la paciencia vince todo, or, as Sancho Panza has it, patience is a plaster for all sores, we had to try the panacea, much to the amusement of some ladies, within some adjacent iron bars, who, as we did not distinctly see them, I set down as neither so beautiful, nor so well dressed, nor with such pretty satin shoes, nor, above all, such neat silk stockings as those on the other side of the river; and in the ill-natured mood of the moment, I insisted they were jealous of the roses on Elizabeth's cheeks, which the removal of her chip hat and the dust seemed to have exposed merely to vex them. After all, it was more ridiculous to be vext, than for those strangers to gape at strangers, especially a female, of a distant country; who was, in fact, at the same moment making fun of these curious incognitas, with her no less funny brother.

The piety of the alcalde was not yet exhausted, though our philosophy had almost run out, for the grey light was not very distant; good magistrates compensate for many things by being pious; like charity, it covers a multitude of sins; it was therefore not wonderful that he would not be disturbed at his oraciones, though the business of his magistracy stood still-In the midst of our exemplary patience, a gentleman in military uniform was passing on the opposite side of the street, he crossed and accosted us in English, enquiring if he could serve us; his uniform led me away from my point, but I enquired if he knew Dr. Mullery—“ I am that person," said he, "and you must be Colonel Duane." We were in an instant acquaintance, though they were the first syllables we had ever exchanged-he moved on with "follow me." The sergeant, who had just returned from the third or fourth siege of the alcalde, took the word from the doctor as quickly as if he was going to