a parallelogram. There is a sliding box on the longer arm, and another on the shorter arm. These boxes may be fixed at any part of the rulers, by means of their milled screws; and each of these boxes is furnished with a cylindric tube, to carry either the tracing point, pencil, or fulcrum.

The fulcrum or support K is a leaden weight; on this the whole instrument moves when in use.

To the longer instruments are sometimes placed two moveable rollers, to support the pentagraph and facilitate its motions. Their situation may be varied as occasion requires.

The graduations are placed on two of the rulers, B and D, with the proportions of, 3, 4, &c. to, marked on them.

The pencil-holder, tracer, and fulcrum must in all cases be in a right line, so that when they are set to any number, if a string be stretched over them, and they do not coincide with it, there is an error either in the setting or gradations.

The long tube which carries the pencil or crayon moves easily up or down in another tube; there is a string affixed to the long or inner tube, passing afterwards through the holes in three small knobs to the tracing point, where it may, if necessary, be fastened. By pulling this string, the pencil is lifted up occasionally, and thus prevented from making false or improper marks upon the

copy.

THE USE OF THE PENTAGRAPH.

To reduce a plan in any of the proportions, I, I, I, I, &c., as marked on the two bars B and D. required.

Suppose, for example,

is

Place the two sockets, at, on the bars B and D, the fulcrum or lead weight at B, the pencil socket with the pencil at D, and the tracing point at c. Fasten down upon a smooth board or table a sheet of white paper under the pencil D, and the original map, &c., under the tracing point c, allowing yourself room enough for the various openings of the instrument. Then with a steady hand carefully move the tracing point c over all the lines on the map; and the pencil at D will describe exactly the same figure as the original, but the size. In the same manner for any other proportion, by setting the two sockets to the number of the required proportion.

The pencil-holder moves easily in the socket, to give way to any irregularity in the paper. There is a cup at the top for receiving an additional weight, either to keep down the pencil to the paper, or to increase the strength of its mark.

A silken string is fastened to the pencil-holder, in order that the pencil may be drawn up off the paper, to prevent false marks when crossing the original plan, in the operation.

If the original should be so large that the instrument will not extend over it at one operation, two or three points must be marked on the original, to correspond with the same upon the copy. The fulcrum and copy may then be removed into such situations as to admit the copying of the remaining part of the original; first observing, that when the tracing point is applied to the three points marked on the original, the pencil falls on the three corresponding points upon the copy. In this manner by repeated shiftings, a pentagraph may be made to copy an original of ever so large dimensions.

To enlarge a Plan in any of the proportions,,, &c.

Suppose.

Set the two sockets at, as before, and change places of the pencil and tracing point; namely, place the tracing point at D, and the pencil at c.

To copy a Plan the same size as the Original.

Place the two sockets at, the fulcrum at D, and the pencil at B. In this case the lines upon the new plan will be reversed, in copying.

NOTE 1. There are sometimes divisions of 100 unequal parts laid down on the bars B and D, to give any intermediate proportion, not shown by the fractional numbers.

3. Pentagraphs of a greater length than two feet are best made of hard wood mounted in brass, with steel centres, upon the truth of which depends entirely the equable action of this useful instrument.

3. Though I have given various methods of reducing plans, I would advise the learner, after he has found the contents from a plan of 2 chains, or of 1 chain to an inch, to draw another rough plan, of the same size which he intends his finished one to be; and then to transfer it to a clean sheet by any of the foregoing methods. This may appear a little tedious, but it will make the learner very expert in laying down his lines, which will be found of great advantage to him, when he enters upon the Practical Part of Surveying.

TO EMBELLISH A PLAN.

In order to make a neat, finished plan, some knowledge of drawing is absolutely necessary. The learner should also be a proficient in plain and ornamental penmanship; or he will not be able to finish a plan either with beauty or elegance. Every person who would excel in this art, should devote all his leisure hours to copying and making out drawings, either from plans or copper-plates well executed, as nothing but practice will make a good draughtsman.

N

METHOD I.

Plans neatly finished with Indian Ink and Colours.

Having transferred the plan to a clean sheet of drawing-paper, or to a skin of parchment or vellum, by any of the foregoing methods, draw all the straight lines very finely, by the edge of a ruler, with a drawing-pen and Indian ink; but the curved lines must be drawn by a steady hand.

Proceed next to make the representation of hedges, bushes, trees, woods, gates, stiles, bridges, the bases of buildings, &c. &c. in their proper places; running a single dotted line, in an open field, for a foot-path, and a double one for a carriage-road.

Hills may be shaded with a brush or hair-pencil and Indian ink. The first wash should be weak, and the edges of the shade, particularly at the top and bottom of a hill, must be softened off with clear water, and a clean brush, kept for that purpose, at one end of the pencil-handle; the other end being occupied by the Indian ink

brush.

When the hills are very steep, and rise one above another, as those in Wales, Derbyshire, Yorkshire, Westmoreland, Cumberland, Northumberland, and Scotland, they must all be shaded according to their various inclinations; always letting one wash dry before another is laid on, and never neglecting to soften off the edges of each shade with water.

If some parts of the hills be rocky, tint them with a colour resembling stone, after they have been shaded with Indian ink and a hair-pencil in the manner exhibited in No. 2, Plate VII.

It may also be observed that when the inclination of a hill is inconsiderable, it is never noticed by surveyors, in shading or finishing their plans, and if hills be flat at the top, they are left nearly white.

The method of shading high moorish ground and hilly fields may be seen in Plates VI. and VII. ; except they must not be done with lines, in imitation of engraving, but with repeated washes of Indian ink.

After hills have been properly shaded with Indian ink, they may then be coloured in the manner hereafter directed for meadow, pasture, and arable land.

Lakes, rivers, brooks, &c. may also be shaded with a brush and Indian ink, pretty strongly at the edges, and softened off towards the middle; and when they are dry, they may be washed over with a light tint of Prussian blue. The shape of arrows should also be made in brooks and rivers, to show in what direction the streams run.

Meadow and pasture ground should be coloured with a transparent green, the pasture rather lighter than the meadow; arable land with various shades of fine brown, so that too many fields may not appear exactly alike; and some surveyors use both red, blue, lake, and yellow in colouring plans.

If the quickwood hedges be not made with a pen and Indian ink, in imitation of bushes, they may be represented by running narrow shades of colouring along the black lines which form the boundaries of the different enclosures.

Roads should be washed with a brownish tint, and the bases of buildings with a red one, or with Indian ink, laid on with a brush of a convenient size, as it is difficult to manage large brushes in shading small spaces.

Sands upon the sea-shore may be washed over with a mixture of brown, lake, and gamboge.

Greens of various shades may be composed of blue and yellow; a pleasing variety of brownish tints may be produced by mixing lake, red, or yellow, with a little brown; and a shade for water may be formed of Indian ink and Prussian blue.

All the washes should be made thin and laid on in a very neat manner, as nothing disfigures a plan or map so much as daubing on the colours too thickly.

If the estate be small, the area of each enclosure may be put down in some vacant part of the plan; but if it be large, the areas must either be entered within the fields themselves, or in a book of particulars, which may also contain any remarks that the surveyor may think necessary to make to his employer concerning the estate.

In some convenient parts of the plan, write, in various hands, with Indian ink, the title of the estate, ornamented with a compartment or device. In another vacancy introduce the scale by which the plan has been laid down, and also meridian-line, with the compass or flower-de-luce pointing to the north.

The whole may then be bordered with black lines, at a convenient distance from each other, and the space between them shaded with a hair-pencil and Indian ink. See Plates IX. and XI.

NOTE 1. If the learner examine a well-finished coloured map of England, or any other country, he will fully comprehend what has been said on the subject of embellishing plans.

2. Indian ink must always be used in planning; and as it is frequently of a very bad quality, it is advisable to try it before you purchase, by wetting one end of the cake, and rubbing it upon white paper. The blackest and freest is considered the best.

3. The most convenient colours are those ready prepared in cakes, which must be used in the following manner: Dip one end of the cake in clear water, and rub

a little of it upon a clean wedgewood or earthen plate; then mix it with water by your hair-pencil, until you have brought it to any consistency you please. Indian ink must be prepared for use in the same way.

4. The following water-colours may be enumerated; viz. :

By means of these colours a great variety of tints may be formed; and a little practice will soon enable the learner to produce any shade that may be wanted for plans or maps.

5. When the price for measuring and planning is very small, surveyors generally finish their plans neatly, but without either colours, compartments, or embellishments of any kind.

6. Professional surveyors always enter in their field-books the day of the month and date of the year when they begin to survey an estate; and in finishing their plan, they date them accordingly, and also insert their own names, in order that gentlemen may know when and by whom their estates were surveyed.

METHOD II.

Plans highly finished with Indian Ink and Colours.

The foregoing method of finishing plans is very expeditious, and may suffice when the price allowed for surveying will not admit of much time being spent in making embellishments; but when a highly-finished plan is wanted, the following method must be adopted.

Meadows.

With a pen, or a very fine-pointed hair-pencil, and light Indian ink, make perpendicular and inclining strokes over the whole meadow, as represented in No. 1, Plate VI., and then wash it with a fine transparent green. The strokes must be of various lengths, but none of them should exceed the 10th part of an inch.

Pasture Grounds.

Pastures may be shaded with upright and sloping strokes, of various lengths, as represented in No. 2, Plate VI., and then washed over with a green, somewhat inclining to yellow. None of the strokes should exceed the 20th part of an inch in length.

Corn Fields.

By the edge of a ruler, or by the hand, draw (in short dishes) fine parallel lines, at equal distances from each other, so as to give the fields the appearance of being divided into ridges and furrows, as represented in Nos. 3 and 4, Plate VI.; and then wash each field over with a different tint of brown, inclining to yellow.