oblong moulds or boxes, into which a light frame is previously fixed, holding, stretched from one end to the other, a number of cords of packthread. The mould filled with syrup is then put into the drying stove, and suffered to remain undisturbed for a considerable time, during which the sugar gradually deposits itself in crystals around the threads. The mould is then removed, and the frame is lifted out, with every thread thickly and very beautifully encrusted with the candy, and is afterwards drained, to free it from the adhering syrup. Sugar-candy is more transparent and much harder than common sugar. The brown sort crystallizes full as regularly as the white, but becomes clammy and deliquescent in a damp air, while the white remains always dry. On account of its superior hardness it is less soluble than the loaf-sugar, and appears to have much less taste, but it has full as strong a body of and would sugar, be excellently calculated for preserving all vegetable food, if the price were lower.

SECTION XIV.

[Pantologia.

Tea.

Thea-LINN.

THE tea-plant is a native of Japan, China, and Tonquin, and has not, as far as we can learn, been found growing spontaneously in any other part of the world*. It is a small ever-green tree, or shrub, much branched, and covered with a bright dark grey bark. Mr. Aiton affirms that it was first introduced into this country in 1768, by John Ellis, Esq. who raised it from seeds, and presented it to the king's gardener at Kew: but Dr. Woodville inclines to believe that the tea-plant which first flowered in Europe belonged to his grace the Duke of Northumberland, at Sion House.

Sir Charles Thunberg, one of the most distinguished pupils of Linnæus, who resided sixteen months in Batavia and Japan, has given a full botanical description of the tea-plant: and having

Captain Cook found a low ever-green shrub in great abundance on the island of Teneriffe; which he observes, possesses a great resemblance to the thea of Japan and China, and which though not propagated, and regarded as a weed, is used as tea by many of the Spaniards of the island, who affirm it has the same taste. But we know nothing of the sexual characters of this plant.

EDITOR.

classed it in the same manner as his master, says expressly that it has only one style. Several of the British botanists, on the other hand, refer it to the order of trigynia; deriving their authority from a plant in the duke of Northumberland's garden at Sion-house, which had three styles.

Linnæus says that there are two species of the tea plant; the bohea, the corolla of which has six petals; and the viridis, or green tea,which has nine petals. Thunberg makes only one species, the bohea, consisting of two varieties: the one with broad and the other with narrow leaves. This botanist's authority is decisive respecting the Japanese tea plants; but as China has not yet been explored, we cannot determine what number of species there are in that country. The tea-tree, however, is now common in the botanical gardens in this country; and it is evident that there are two species, or, at least, permanent varieties of it: one with a much longer leaf than the other, which our gardeners call the green tea; and the other with shorter leaves, which they call the bohea. The green is by much the hardiest plant, and with very little protection will bear the rigour of our winters. Messrs. Loddiges, of Hackney, have now several large plants of it in the open ground, which they only cover with mats in hard frost. It is chiefly propagated in this country by layers.

This plant delights in valleys, and is frequent on the sloping sides of mountains and the banks of rivers, where it enjoys a southern exposure. It flourishes in the northern latitudes of Pekin as well as round Canton; but attains the greatest perfection in the mild temperate regions of Nankin. It is said only to be found between the 30th and 45th degree of north latitude. In Japan it is planted round the borders of fields, without regard to the soil; but as it is an important article of commerce with the Chinese, whole fields are covered with it, and it is by them cultivated with care. The abbé Rochen says, it grows equally well in a poor as in a rich soil; but that there are certain places where it is of a better quality. The tea which grows in rocky ground is superior to that which grows in a light soil; and the worst kind is that which is produced in a clay soil. It is propagated by seeds; from six to twelve are put into a hole about five inches deep, at certain distances from each other. The reason why so many seeds are sown in the same hole is said to be, that only a fifth part vegetate. Being thus sown,

they grow without any other care. Some, however, manure the land, and remove the woods; for the Chinese are as fond of good tea, and take as much pains to procure it of an excellent quality, as the Europeans do to procure excellent wine.

The leaves are not fit for being plucked till the shrub is of three years' growth. In seven years it rises to a man's height; but as it then bears but few leaves, it is cut down to the stem, and this produces a new crop of fresh shoots the following summer, every one of which bears nearly as many leaves as a whole shrub. Sometimes the plants are not cut down till they are ten years old. We are informed by Kæmpfer, that there are three seasons in which the leaves are collected in the isles of Japan, from which the tea derives different degrees of perfection.

The first gathering commences at the end of February or beginning of March. The leaves are then small, tender, and unfolded, and not above three or four days old: these are called ficki-tsiaa, or "tea in powder," because it is pulverised; it is also called imperial tea, being generally reserved for the court and people of rank; and sometimes also it is named bloom tea. It is sold in China for 20d. or 2s. per pound. The labourers employed in collecting it do not pull the leaves by handfuls, but pick them up one by one, and take every precaution that they may not break them. However long and tedious this labour may appear, they gather from four to ten or fifteen pounds a day.

The second crop is gathered about the end of March or beginning of April. At this season, part of the leaves have attained their full growth, and the rest are not above half their size. This difference does not, however, prevent them from being all gathered indiscriminately. They are afterwards picked and assorted into different parcels, according to their age and size. The youngest, which are carefully separated from the rest, are often sold for leaves of the first crops, or for imperial tea. Tea gathered at this season is called too tsiaa, or "Chinese tea," because the people of Japan infuse it, and drink it after the Chinese manner.

The third crop is gathered in the end of May, or in the month of June. The leaves are then very numerous and thick, and have acquired their full growth. This kind of tea, which is called bentsiaa, is the coarsest of all, and is reserved for the common people.

Some of the Japanese collect their tea only at two seasons of the

year, which correspond to the second and third already mentioned: others confine themselves to one general gathering of their crop, towards the month of June: however, they always form afterwards different assortments of their leaves.

An infusion of tea is the common drink of the Chinese; and indeed, when we consider one circumstance in their situation, we must acknowledge that Providence has displayed much goodness in scattering this plant with so much profusion in the empire of China. The water is said to be unwholesome and nauseous, and would, therefore, perhaps, without some corrective, be unfit for the purposes of life. The Chinese pour boiling water over their tea, and leave it to infuse, as we do in Europe; but they drink it without any mixture, and even without sugar. The people of Japan reduce theirs to a fine powder, which they dilute with warm water, until it has acquired the consistence of thin soup. Their manner of serving tea is as follows: They place before the company the teaequipage, and the box in which this powder is contained; they fill the cups with warm water, and taking from the box as much powder as the point of a knife can contain, throw it into each of the cups, and stir it, until the liquor begins to foam; it is then presented to the company, who sip it while it is warm. According to Du Halde, this method is not peculiar to the Japanese; it is also used in some of the provinces of China.

The first European writer who mentions tea is Giovanni Botero, an eminent Italian author, who published a treatise about the year 1590, of the causes of the magnificence and greatness of cities. He does not indeed mention its name, but describes it in such a manner that it is impossible to mistake it. "The Chinese (says he,) have a herb, out of which they press a delicate juice, which serves them for drink instead of wine; it also preserves their health, and frees them from all those evils which the immoderate use of wine produces among us."

Tea was introduced into Europe in the year 1610, by the Dutch East India Company. It is generally said, that it was first imported from Holland into England, in 1666, by the lords Arlington and Ossory, who brought it into fashion among people of quality. But it was used in coffee-houses before this period, as appears by an act of parliament made in 1660, by which a duty of 8d. was laid on every gallon of the infusion sold in these places. In 1666 it was