only see vines trained against a wall, or in a hot-house. Here also we came to the land of Churches with tall bell-towers (campaniles), with pierced windows; and here and there were open Chapels at the road-side with paintings in fresco. One of these Chapels had a picture of the crucifixion, and of St. Augustine and his mother Monica,-suggestive of recollections of his sojourn at Milan. Passed a Cemetery walled in, with an inscription over the gate, "Beati qui in Domino moriuntur." None of the Churches had churchyards. This is a great loss. Ugo Foscolo somewhere describes his pleasurable emotions at seeing an English churchyard: and certainly this union of the dead with the living in connexion with the Church serves to keep alive the feeling of the communion of saints,

"One family we dwell in Him ;

One Church above, beneath,
Though now divided by the stream,

The narrow stream, of Death1."

In the fields by the road-side men were gathering mulberry-leaves from off the trees,

3

Rev. xiv. 13.

4 Charles Wesley.

and packing them in sacks for the silk-worms (bachi di seta); the trees when stripped looked dead and bare and dry, like skeletons. For some years past the silk-worms of Lombardy have been suffering from a disease, of which no one seems able to discover the cause or the remedy. This has affected not only the market of silk, but has also much injured the proprietors of mulberry-trees, the demand for mulberry-leaves being much diminished, and their price reduced.

Halted at Bellinzona, the capital of the Canton of Tessino, an interesting old town, partly Swiss and partly Italian, with a middle-age Castle. Thence through the plain by the side of the Ticino (memorable for the campaigns of Hannibal) to Magadino on the Lago Maggiore: at Magadino found a steamer, ready to convey us down the lake to Arona.

The course of these steam-boats is very convenient for those who have leisure, and who wish to see the adjacent country; they cross, and recross, from one side of the lake to the other, in order to take in passengers from the different towns on the banks.

We crossed from Magadino to Locarno. A grave-looking priest in the steamer told me that the deputies of the Canton of Tessino were then holding their sittings at Locarno, where he landed. These Swiss legislators are rather afraid that the Italians will be desirous of absorbing their canton into the kingdom of Italy. He thought that the hopes of Italian unification, as it is called, with a capital at Rome, were illusory. The States of Italy, he said, had never been united, and never would be. And as for the surrender of the Pope's temporal powerall good Catholics, he conceived, would be opposed to such a measure as "contro i sentimenti cattolici."

He asked me by what route I had come into Italy. I was rather amused with the terms in which he spoke of the scenery of the Alpine passes. It was "orrida e selvaggia?"-but this, it will be remembered, was the language of the Ancients concerning mountain scenery. Tempe was not "a pleasant vale" in their eyes; and the Alps were almost always described as stern, savage, and inhospitable, not only by ancient Poets, but by modern Tourists even to the

time of Burnet and Addison. The poet Gray was the first to discover the attractions of the Lake scenery of Westmoreland.

A peasant came into the steamer at Canobbio, and talked freely in a very different strain about the state of Italy. As to the "radunanza” of Bishops at Rome, the plea that it was for the Canonization of Martyrs was a mere pretext "pei ciechi," but "all persons," he said, “who had their eyes open, could see that it was a congiura contro le libertà Italiane."" He had read Lord Palmerston's speech on Italian affairs, and all the lovers of freedom in Italy were thankful to England for the support she had given to their designs. He spoke of the recent attempt made by a party of Garibaldian volunteers to excite the population of the Tyrol and of Bergamo, Brescia, and Venetia, to rise against the Austrians, which might have suddenly involved the whole of this country in war.

On the 15th May, - last Thursday,—the Garibaldian commander, Colonel Nullo, was arrested at Palazzuolo, by order of the Turin Government (the King and principal ministers were absent at Naples), and with some other officers were conducted to the prison of Brescia;

VOL. I.

D

on which the mob arose, and broke into the prison, crying, Viva Garibaldi! and the military fired upon them, and some were wounded, and two killed. Garibaldi has written a letter, dated Trescorre, 16th May, in which he identifies himself with the movement, and says that Colonel Nullo acted under his orders; and in another letter, written on Sunday last, he protests against the cruelty of the Government and the army which perpetrated the "strage di Brescia."

It was a beautiful afternoon, and we had a good view of the Lake and surrounding scenery; -passed by Isola Bella, and came in sight of the colossal statue of S. Carlo Borromeo at Arona.

We landed at Arona, and took the train to Novara, memorable for the battle fought on the 23rd March, 1849, between the Piedmontese and Austrian armies. The Austrians numbered 80,000 men, and 200 pieces of artillery: the Sardinian force did not amount to more than one-half that of their opponents. After a courageous struggle, the King of Sardinia, Carlo Alberto, was defeated by the veteran Austrian general Radetzki, and