since the only ones we perceived were a few women who were mowing down beans and oats with scythes.

Hornberg, at which we arrived after descending through the valley of Kinzig, has some pretensions to the title of picturesque, in lack of a more complimentary epithet. Its antiquated houses have their gables turned towards the street; and the windows are so firm in their principles, as not to admit of being opened, being permanently fixed: there is, however, a lesser unglazed aperture in each, for the purpose of admitting fresh air, and along with it a copious draught into the rooms; and said aperture is turned to further advantage, as those withinside the houses station themselves there for the purpose of observing all that passes abroad, and reconnoitring their neighbours' motions; which they are thus enabled to do without flattening the end of their noses against the glass, till it forms a circle as large as a shilling. We observed many a face, thus framed in by the aperture just mentioned, gazing upon us and our equipage, as if we had dropped in it from the clouds, or even from the moon itself. Quite certain I am that they were not admiring the fine weather out of doors just then, and therefore am at liberty to suppose they were bestowing their admiration upon us. It gives me concern, therefore, that I am unable to repay them in kind, or to say more of them and their town than I already have done. All that I can add is, that we saw some men with white nightcaps worn under their hats, an odd

fashion, yet one that might occasionally be followed among ourselves, since a nightcap would at times be a most useful companion on a visit.

As we advanced along the valley of Kinzig, the country began to exhibit a more cultivated appearance; there were numerous fields of Indian corn, besides many consisting entirely of vegetables and similar produce, including pumpkins. The mode adopted for preparing grass lands hereabouts is somewhat unusual; the old turf being pared off, piled up in heaps, and set fire to and burnt until quite reduced to ashes, which are then ploughed into the ground.

That the inhabitants were Catholics was rendered plainly discernible by the crosses and effigies we passed every now and then; and which, in the eyes of a painter, might be picturesque enough additions to the landscape, either as near or distant objects; while by some they might be thought to impart to it a classical air, as partaking of the ancient heathen practice of setting up stones and termini as guardians over fields, and by the way side. Were it not that I am fearful I should make my readers quite cross by saying any thing more upon a subject that has been so frequently made a topic of comment in the course of these pages, I could still add much, but Basta così! I would not have my zeal against such idolatrous practice procure for me the credit of being a downright idolhater myself. I therefore merely slip one remark into a little peccadillo of

260

RELIGIOUS BOOK-KEEPING.

note below*, and pass on to Offenburg, a small neat town with a spacious church, in whose churchyard there is a large building, containing colossal figures representing Christ praying in the garden, and a ruffian band approaching to lay hold of him. The wines of this district are in high repute: there are two sorts, one white, called Klingelberger; the other red, called Zeller.

A few miles further on, the lofty spire of Strasburg

That Roman Catholics of the present day are become, so enlightened as to reject all the superstitious and unscriptural tenets of their forefathers, we are furnished with a convincing proof in the following inscription in the Brunswick Street Chapel, Cork. "Sacred to the memory of Hugh M- -y, merchant, who gave the goods of this world to obtain immortal glory in the next, and having obtained a balance of merit in the Book of Life, he made Heaven a debtor to mercy!!" This, it must be confessed, is a truly mercantile mode of transacting business with Heaven keeping a regular debtor and creditor account with it, bringing in, Heaven one's debtor at last. Truly the Dives of whom we read in Scripture must have been a fool in other than the scriptural sense of the word, else would he have given-that is, bequeathed his worldly goods, when he had no further occasion for them, as purchase money for a more comfortable berth in the other world than what he obtained. Although we Englishmen are a nation of shopkeepers, we do not carry the shopkeeping principle quite to the extent that Catholics do, nor exactly debit Heaven in our books, and when the accounts are cast up call upon it to pay the balance! That would be somewhat too barefaced even for John Bull's gullibility. Yet may we presume it was upon the principle of wealth being able to purchase divine grace, and consequently being the representative of it, that a certain knight assured old Soane, that he had obtained the grace of God!! Surely some of Sir John's friends must have been as much "of unsound mind" as Sir John himself.

--

A

DRAMATIC EPIGRAM.

261

t

cathedral came into view a pile that is in some respects the very noblest achievement of Gothic architecture-one that makes our proudest English cathedrals appear mere pigmies by comparison. Our route, however, lay towards Baden; along the road to which place we met many of those travelling Bürschen or young mechanics, whose custom it is in Germany, on the expiration of their lehrjahre or apprenticeship, to set out afoot on their peregrinations through the country in search of employment in their respective trades. They are not above receiving money, or rather, expect it to be offered them; and we were more than once laid under contribution by them, though after a very civil fashion. We likewise met several odd figures among the peasantry, that is oddly attired, so much so, that at first we almost mistook them for mummers, fancying that it might be the custom for strolling actors to stroll about the country in their stage dresses. Surely our London managers would do well to import some of these realities: not that they would be exactly stars; for some of them would be more likely to come under the description once given by a theatrical wag, of a certain more admired than applauded actress: →→

b

う

A" Star," indeed, she can't be called,

For I'd believe as soon,

That I'm the Sun; oh, no, 'tis clear

She is a big Full Moon!

H

A PRIORI, it would be deemed a most preposterous and extravagant fancy, were any one to propose that a public infirmary or hospital should be used as a rendezvous for pleasure and a haunt of dissipation. The projector of such a scheme would run considerable risk of having a commission de lunatico inquirendo appointed to inquire whether he was of sound mind, that is, if he was possessed of sufficient property to pay for the distinction, because poverty of purse exempts a man from all formal impertinent curiosity of the kind. Nevertheless, although the scheme just mentioned would be reckoned quite a mad one in theory, it is relished exceedingly in practice. At least, all the places which have obtained celebrity for the efficacy of their mineral waters and baths, are resorted to not only by invalids and cripples, but likewise by those who, as far as appearances go, are in perfect bodily health, whatever mental disorders they may be afflicted with, such as megrim, spleen, ennui, and nothing-to-do-ishness — perhaps a