perous, but rather homespun withal, containing few objects of any note; among those few, however, may be reckoned the Borsa, which is, certainly, a noble edifice, adorned with colossal statues, and having a very handsome internal court. In the piazza in front of this building, is a fountain, erected in 1752, decorated with a marble group, representing Neptune, in a shell-like car, drawn by sea-horses; and near to it stands a white marble column surmounted by a bronze statue of the Emperor Leopold I.

There are several handsome and spacious private residences, mostly belonging to opulent merchants and foreigners. The one particularly deserving of note is called the Palazzo Carciotti, after its late proprietor, who is reported to have been originally a pedlar or petty chapman, whose stock in trade did not exceed what he could trudge along with at his back; but, settling at Trieste, he soon became one of the wealthiest, if not the very wealthiest, individual in the place. Perhaps the story has received some embellishment; for, in such cases, the marvellous is seldom spared; but the edifice* itself, with its two façades adorned with columns and statues, bears testimony both to his wealth, and to his liberal use of it.

Several of the shops are elegant; and most of them

* It was built by an architect named Pertsch, who also erected the Casa Panzera, another handsome mansion with an elegant Ionic façade.

This

are apparently well stocked with commodities of every kind, which, together with the bustle in the streets, gives the place a degree of liveliness striking enough after the silence and the too visible desolation of Venice; the latter being actually triste in comparison with Trieste. Still there was little to interest us in the way of sight-seeing, for the city boasts of very few lions; among those few, however, to which a traveller is directed, is the monument of the celebrated Winckelmann. is placed within a building erected in what was formerly a burying-ground, adjacent to the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, but is now converted into a garden. There is nothing very remarkable in the monument, it consisting only of a sarcophagus with a medallion of the great German antiquary, who was treacherously murdered here in the year 1768, while on his way from Vienna to Rome. On each side, there are tablets with inscriptions, recording that the spot had been visited by many crowned heads, and, among the rest, by the sovereigns of Prussia and Bavaria.

Winckelmann, it may safely be asserted, was one of the eminent characters of the eighteenth century; one whose writings form an epoch in the study of artistical archæology. To the erudition of a scholar he united the sensibility of a poet, and the discriminating taste of a profound critic. There is a glow of eloquence, the eloquence of unaffected feeling, in his remarks, that stamps him as belonging to a class altogether different

from the dry scholiast-like writers on such subjects who preceded him; nor has he, in this respect, been equalled by those who have had the advantage of his example for their guidance in a similar career. It cannot, indeed, be denied that much additional light has since been thrown upon many of the subjects of which he treated, and that errors have been detected in his writings; yet, even were these latter far more numerous and serious, we should still be compelled to acknowledge that he achieved more than any other individual has done for the history of ancient art.

On an eminence above this garden, is a fortification, commanding a most extensive view of the town and harbour below, together with a prospect of the cultivated hills around, thickly beset with cottages and other dwellings; the whole affording a highly agreeable picture, because it bore unequivocal signs of industry and abundance. The soil appears to teem with grapes, and fruits, and vegetables of all kinds, not forgetting the olive, which here forms an important branch of culture and manufacture.

The old town forms a complete contrast to the new one, the streets being there as narrow and crooked, as those in the other are spacious and straight; and the irregularity is further heightened by the inequality of the ground, which is such, that you have either a steep ascent or declivity to encounter. In this district of Trieste, are situated the castle and cathedral almost contiguous to each

other. The latter, which is dedicated to San Giusto, and originally founded as far back as the fourth century, is an irregular pile of building, divided internally into five aisles; and at the high altar there are two large tribunes ornamented with figures of saints in mosaic, on a gold ground. The front of this church is more than a piece of antiquity, for it may almost be said to be composed of pieces of antiquity, owing to the inscriptions and fragments of sculpture which have been built into it. There was formerly an episcopal palace, but that has been converted into an hospital, and the bishop now occupies a private residence.

Like Leghorn, Trieste is the residence of a great number of Jews, nearly as many, in fact, as the entire population of the city amounted to in the early part of the seventeenth century, when it was reckoned at little more than 3000 persons; whereas it is now nearly 50,000, and annually increasing. There are also a number of Greeks either settled here, or who frequent the place for commercial purposes.

On landing, we took up our quarters at the Locanda Grande, the principal hotel, where we expected to meet with the best accommodation; instead of which we found that, although the charges were enormous, the accommodation, at least such as they chose to bestow upon us, was exceedingly bad; yet this we might have patiently put up with, had not the insolence we experienced been equal to the extortion and imposition practised upon us.

GRANDEE-ISHNESS.

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Mine host seemed to think that John Bull was both a milch cow and a golden calf; and that he was justified in squeezing out of us all he possibly could, without dispensing even a little cheap civility in return. However, it is possible that civility was a very rare commodity in his house and that had he supplied us with ever so little of it, he would have charged it as an additional item in his bill, and, perhaps, the heaviest of all. Nor are the people of the Locanda Grande at Trieste the only ones in the world who consider civility and decent attention by far too valuable to be given away for nothing. However, we did not long trouble the grandees of the hotel, and felt very glad at extricating ourselves from them and all their grandeur, trusting that we should never encounter the like again. I have since discovered, too, that we were not singular in not relishing the exorbitant hospitality of our Boniface, as another traveller has just born testimony to his astonishing rapacity; but he compelled him to be content with the moiety of what he had the conscience to demand.

We returned by the steamer to Venice; and although I had not this time the agreeable companion whom accident had before introduced me to, I had the gratification of enjoying one of the finest starlight evenings I had ever witnessed. The air was deliciously serene and balmy, and a spangled canopy seemed outstretched over the waters of the Adriatic.