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PYRAMID OF MYCERINUS.

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grass, which irrigation would quickly convert into rich pasture.

DLXXXIV. The whole vicinity of the pyramids is occupied by tombs, some excavated in the rock, others constructed with vast blocks of stone, masses of solid masonry, or, perhaps, containing chambers whose entrances are unknown. One of the former, now inhabited by a Mohammedan saint, is divided by a skreen of Egyptian workmanship into two commodious apartments, adorned with sculpture and hieroglyphics, and containing numerous small niches for coffins. A row of figures in alto relievo formerly extended the whole length of the tomb; but these fanaticism or antiquarian avarice has long since removed. The saint was absent, begging, perhaps, in the villages; but his hospitable door stood open, so that whoever chose might enter, and rest himself. From this tomb we proceeded to the pyramid of Mycerinus*, the smallest, but once the most beautiful of these extraordinary temples, having been coated with red granite from Siene. Very few of the blocks now retain their original position, the greater number, displaced by Turkish or antiquarian barbarians, encumbering the soil about its base; though their

* "Minor quidem prædictis," says Pliny, "sed multo spectatior, Æthiopicis lapidibus, assurgit ccclxii pedibus inter angulos." Hist. Nat. xxxvi. 12. According to Herodotus, it was only half covered with Ethiopian marble:— λίθου δὲ ἐς τὸ ἥμισυ Αἰθιοπικοῦ, ii. 134. He condemns, perhaps without sufficient reason, the tradition of the Greeks, attributing its erection to the courtesan Rhodopis.

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DELINEATION OF ANIMALS.

cupidity has been hitherto defeated in its object, the entrance to the interior remaining undiscovered. South-west are two similar structures of smaller dimensions, and much dilapidated. Proceeding northward, along the great enclosure wall of the second pyramid, we entered a spacious tomb, where, as at Eilithyias and Gournou, are delineated, in a rude style, the occupations and amusements of the Egyptians: butchers cutting up oxen,—a favourite subject, - dancing, fighting, &c. On one of the walls is a representation of a river fight, in which the boats containing the combatants seem very little superior to the coracles of the ancient Britons described by Cæsar. In the delineation of cattle the artists of Thebes and Memphis appear to have made considerable proficiency; several bulls, on the interior of this tomb, are ably delineated; and, from the fulness and beauty of their form, it may be inferred that much care was bestowed in improving the breed of this animal; which was sometimes worshipped and sometimes eaten.

DLXXXV. Having omitted, during our first visit, to enter the pyramid of Cephrenes, opened by Belzoni, we now, accompanied by several Bedouins, who had joined us from the neighbouring villages, descended into the interior; the operation involving neither difficulty nor danger. All the passages are beautifully cased with oriental porphyry. In the floor of the larger chamber-the only one now accessible—is a sunken sarcophagus, in which, it has been said, the

RETURN TO CAIRO.

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bones of an ox (more probably of a cow) were found; a circumstance at variance with the vulgar hypothesis, that the pyramids were royal tombs. Numerous names are scrawled upon the walls, but none possessing any interest, excepting that of Belzoni; those old Mohammedan signatures, visible on the first opening of the pyramid, being no longer legible. A passage, now blocked up with large stones, leads towards the base of the edifice, where there probably exist many chambers excavated in the rock. The ascent to the summit, though exceedingly laborious, and not wholly divested of danger, has been several times achieved; but, as the view from the pyramid of Cheops, which is considerably higher, must necessarily be more extensive, no rational object can be gained by effecting it. In the sand, near the sphynx, are two beautiful sarcophagi, in blue granite, with their covers lying near them, adorned with rich sculpture, and in excellent preservation. Proceeding over the plain to Ghizeh, we crossed the Nile, and hastened to Cairo, where we arrived late in the afternoon.

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PILGRIM CARAVAN.

CHAPTER XII.

DEPARTURE OF THE PILGRIM CARAVAN- DECREASE OF RELIGIOUS ZEAL- SPLENDID COSTUME OF THE TURKISH OFFICERS — MO

IN

A FELLAH

- BAGGAGE OF THE PILGRIMS

HAMMEDAN LADIES MILITARY ESCORT ORIENTAL MUSIC - SAINTS OF CAIRO — CAT CARRIED PROCESSION -SACRED COVERING FOR THE KA’ABA — FANTASTIC BUFFOONS AMUSEMENTS OF THE POPULACE APPEARANCE OF THE PILGRIMS IN THE DESERT REPORTS OF REBELLION- ROBBER CASTES IN EGYPT MURDER OF A PILGRIM AND CONVENT OF MOUNT SINAI GREEK MONKS MADHOUSE OF CAIRO FEARFUL SPECTACLE APPEARANCE OF THE LUNATICS — THE HOSPITAL-TOMBS OF THE KHALIFS — SARACENIC ARCHITECTURE CONSISTENT JEALOUSY OF THE ORIENTALS CONCEALMENT OF THE GRAVES OF WOMEN GRAVE OF BURCKHARDT- CURIOUS STRUCTURE OF MOHAMMEDAN TOMBS -- BEAUTIFUL SARACENIC GATEWAY - THE GRAND CANAL HOUSE OF BURCKHARDT.

DLXXXVI. FROM the period of our return from the Fayoom, until my departure for Alexandria, I was unceasingly occupied in examining the city and environs of Cairo; where, as I have already observed, materials might easily be obtained for an instructive and interesting volume. Among the spectacles here witnessed by the traveller, none, perhaps, are more deserving of notice than the departure of the pilgrim caravan, which yearly, in the spring, traverses the Arabian wilderness to Mekka. From the decay of religious zeal in all parts of the Mohammedan world,

DECREASE OF RELIGIOUS ZEAL.

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the pomp and magnificence formerly displayed on these occasions have, for ages, been gradually diminishing. The Khalifs of Egypt, when they undertook the pilgrimage in person, frequently exhibited the extreme of barbaric grandeur; being attended by innumerable cavaliers in gorgeous costume, mounted on horses or dromedaries richly caparisoned in purple and gold and even in later ages, the governors and Pashas entrusted with the management of the sacred cavalcade, expended considerable sums in what was regarded as a work of piety. But the passion for costly and glittering pageants, characteristic of barbarous times and nations, has long been on the wane in the East, where a more simple taste, introduced by good sense or poverty, is imperceptibly succeeding it. Perhaps, as regards Egypt, the decay of pilgrimage may be connected with the policy of Mohammed Ali; the pervading spirit of whose government is wholly adverse to the influence of religious fanaticism.

DLXXXVII. Early in the morning, shortly after the salah il subh, the firing of cannon, and an unusual noise and commotion in the streets, announced the commencement of the important day. The whole population of the city appeared to be agitated by the anticipation of some extraordinary event. Groups of men and women, congregating in the squares and public places, or hurrying hither and thither with shouts and clamour, as during the first movements of an insurrection, imparted to the scene an aspect of

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