DIOSPOLIS PARVA. 135 require any further defence; yet I was more than ordinarily gratified by learning from this missionary, M. Gobet, that everything he had observed, during a protracted residence in that country, tended to corroborate the most disputed relations of Bruce. Lieutenant Welsted also, whose reading and scientific knowledge confer a value on his testimony, observed that the result of the new survey of the Red Sea would be highly favourable to the reputation of this distinguished traveller, whose longitudes and latitudes, in almost every case, had been found to be correct in a very extraordinary degree. It is to be regretted that, through the interference of a Bedouin Sheikh, the extremity of the Gulf of Akaba has not been surveyed by our scientific expedition. This intractable Arab refused to consent, even for a present, to allow them to proceed peaceably with their operations, and they were not authorised by the Bombay government to make use of force. Taking leave of our most agreeably guests, who were returning to the Red Sea, we proceeded down the Nile, and, late in the evening, the wind being high and contrary, moored for a few hours near Oulad Amér. Wednesday, Feb. 20. On the Nile. D. Early in the morning we found ourselves near Haou or Diospolis Parva, but did not disembark, as the place no longer contains any vestige of antiquity. The wind being favourable, we advanced rapidly all day, and remained on board until sunset; when the beauty of the evening tempted us to land. This 136 END OF THE RAMADAN. being the last day of the Ramadan, was a great feast among the Mohammedans; who, like the Catholics, heartily rejoice at the termination of their Lent. At the approach of evening our boats were lashed together, and continued floating down the stream all night. GIRGEHCHEAPNESS OF CORN HINDOO YOGHI CHARACTER OF THE TURKS COUNTRIES ON THE RED SEA GROTTOES OF LAPIDOTON -SIGNS OF SPRING GEBEL SHEIKH HARIDI LEGEND OF THE SACRED SERPENT EXCAVATIONS IN THE ROCK - CELL OF A MOHAMMEDAN SAINT TROGLODYTE PALACE TOMB OF SHEIKH HARIDI VOTIVE OFFERINGS RESORT OF PILGRIMS PASSION FOR FAME ASCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN-BEDS OF CRYSTAL VIEW OVER THE LIBYAN DESERT EVERGREEN WOODS SIOUT SPREAD OF THE INUNDATION CITIES OF THE DEAD -SEPULCHRAL CHAMBERS -VAMPIRE BATS-EXTRAORDINARY EXCAVATION PLAIN OF SIOUT- GAZELLES- CITY OF SIOUT FRUIT OF THE LOTUS- BARBER'S SHOP OF THE EAST FERTILE PLAIN IMPREGNATION OF THE FEMALE PALM-TREE. Thursday, Feb. 21. On the Nile. DI. PASSING Bellianeh at an early hour, we arrived about eight o'clock at Girgeh, formerly the capital of Upper Egypt. This city, which derives its name from a monastery dedicated to St. George, situated within the walls, is still a very considerable place, containing, I was informed, nine large mosques. The private houses, two or three stories high, with neat latticed windows, are built with sun-dried bricks, and appear to be larger and more commodious than in the generality of Egyptian towns; but cleanliness is by no means the characteristic of its inhabitants, for we were everywhere annoyed by offensive and unsavoury smells. Here, in the bazar, I saw the prettiest Arab girl whom I met with in Egypt, dressed in a style rather above the common, and sitting on one of the stone benches near the door of a shop, to which, perhaps, she belonged. There was no great display of goods in the different shops, nor did the bazār appear crowded, as in many other cities; but I observed numerous hawkers walking to and fro, as at Cairo, with handkerchiefs or red caps in their hands, proclaiming aloud the price bidden for each article. The corn-market was ill-supplied and thinly attended; but the wheat appeared to be of the best quality, though badly cleansed, much chaff remaining among the grain. Girgeh has always been celebrated for the cheapness of provisions: wheat was now sold for twenty-six piasters the ardeb. Here I saw a Yoghi, or religious mendicant from India, with a small English handkerchief wrapped about his head, and a large oblong black bowl suspended from his shoulder, intended to contain such things as were given him in charity. Colonel Wilford was informed by the Brahmins of Benares that the object of Hindoo sanyasis, in travelling into Egypt, was to visit the Sacred Serpent of Gebel Sheikh Haridi, concerning which many strange legends are related by the modern sages of India. Here, in the bazăr, a bold little fellow came near and touched my finger; but, when I took off the glove, appeared horror-stricken, * Asiatic Researches, iii. 108, 109. TURKISH REBELS. 139 as if I had been skinning my hand. My eye-glass they seem to regard as a talisman of great power; and if I happen to raise it, for the purpose of looking at some distant object, often run away, as if a pistol were pointed at them. DII. I observed several Turks meet and salute each other in the market-place, by touching ckeeks like the French and Italians. They are easily distinguished by their fine manly features, and gentlemanly appearance; which we regret to discover not to be in keeping with their general character. To us, indeed, they behave with remarkable politeness; but towards the natives, over whom they have long possessed unlimited power, their conduct is imperious and cruel, as towards the Greeks. In the Hejaz, however, where the Bedouins are numerous, the Turk loses his consequence, feels his inferiority, and instinctively yields precedence to the Arab; who, when in the enjoyment of freedom, is a very different being from the fellah. Even the Turks themselves, in that distant province, aim at independence, and dispute with the Pasha the possession of the sacred city of Mekka; whence a small band of these military adventurers, not exceeding three hundred in number, being lately repulsed by Ahmed Pasha, proceeded towards the south, and, entering Yemen, took possession of the city of Mokha, on the coast; where they slew the governor, and bade defiance to Mohammed Ali. In the end they will no doubt be overpowered by the Pasha; whose authority, however, in Arabia, is |