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136

CHAP.
XIII.

TIVOLI.

horse, and foot. The admission is twenty sols. The even-
ing was very fine. We passed immense crowds of people,
who were flocking to the same place. Amongst them were
many elegant, well dressed women, wholly unattended by
gentlemen, a circumstance by no means unusual in Paris.
This place seemed to be raised by the magic touch of en-
chantment. We entered upon gravelled walks, which were
cut through little winding, and intersecting hillocks of box;
those which formed the sides were surmounted by orange
trees, which presented a beautiful colonnade; immediately
after we had passed them, we entered an elegant treillage
of honeysuckles, roses, and eglantine, which formed the
grand entrance to the garden. Here a most animated scene
of festivity opened upon us.
On one side were rope
dancers, people riding at the ring, groups of persons play-
ing at shuttlecock, which seemed to be the favourite, and I
may add, the most ridiculous diversion; on the other side,
were dancers, tumblers, mountebanks, and parties, all with
gay countenances, seated in little bowers enjoying lemonade,
and ices. In the centre as we advanced, were about three
hundred people, who were dancing the favourite waltz. This
dance was brought from Germany, where, from its nature,
the partners are always engaged lovers; but the french, who
think that nothing can be blamable which is susceptible of
elegance, have introduced the german dance, without ad-
hering to the german regulation. The attitudes of the
waltz are very graceful, but they would not altogether ac-
cord with english female notions of delicacy. At a late

fashionable

TIVOLI.

fashionable parisian ball, a gentleman present was requested
by the lady of the house, to waltz with a friend of hers,
who was without a partner. The person of this neglected
fair, was a little inclined to the meagre. The gallant, with-
out the least embarrassment, declined, observing,
"Ah! ma
"chere Madame qu'exigez vous de moi, ne savez vous pas

qu'elle n'a point de sein?" In the middle of the platform of the dancers, a very fine full band was playing. At the end of this raised stage, a very capacious indian marquee was erected, which was beautifully illuminated with variegated lamps, and under its broad canopy, a large concourse of people was seated, some were enjoying conversation, some were playing at buillotte, drinking coffee, &c.; behind this building, was a noble corinthian temple, from the doors of which, were covered trellis walks, leading to spacious gardens, which were formed to display the different tastes of the english, french, and dutch nations, whose respective names they bore. These gardens are intersected by little canals, upon which several persons were amusing themselves with the diversion of canoe racing. The whole was illuminated by large patent reflecting lamps, which shed a lustre almost as brilliant as the day. A few english were present, amongst them were the duchess of Cumberland, and a few other ladics. These gardens, previous to the revolution, were the property of a wealthy minister of France, who, it is said, expended near one hundred thousand pounds sterling, in bringing them to perfection, which he just saw accomplished, when he

T

closed his

closed his eyes upon

the

137

СНАР.

XIII.

138

CHAP.

XIII.

FRESCATI.

the scaffold. The nation became their next proprictor, who sold them for a large sum of money to their present

owners.

From this place we went to Frescati, which is the promenade of the first beauty, and fashion of Paris, who generally assemble about half past ten o'clock, after the opera is concluded. No admission money is required, but singular as it may seem, no improper intruder has yet appeared, a circumstance which may be accounted for by the awe which well bred society ever maintains over vulgarity. Frescati is situated in the Italian Boulevard; was formerly the residence of a nobleman of large fortune, and has also undergone the usual transition of revolutionary confiscation. The streets leading to it were filled with carriages. After ascending a flight of steps, from a handsome court yard, we entered a beautiful hall, which was lined with pier glasses, and decorated with festoons of artificial flowers, at the end of it was a fine statue of Venus de Medicis. On one side of this image was an arch, which led into a suite of six magnificent apartments, which were superbly gilt, painted, and also covered with pier glasses, and lustres of fine diamond cut glass, which latter, looked like so many little glittering cascades. Each room was in a blaze of light, and filled with parties, who were taking ices, or drinking coffee. Each room communicated with the others, by arches, or folding doors of mirrors. The garden is small, but very tastefully disposed. It is composed of three walks, which are lined with orange and acacia trees, and vases of roses. At the

end

on

FRESCATI.

end is a a tower mounted on a rock, temples, and rustic
each side of the walks, are little laby-
bridges; and
rinth bowers. On the side next to the Boulevard, is a ter-
race which commands the whole scene, is lined on each
side with beautiful vases of flowers, and is terminated at
Here
cach end by alcoves, which are lined with mirrors.
in the course of an hour, the astonished, and admiring
near three thousand females of the first
stranger may see
beauty and distinction in Paris, whose checks are no longer
disfigured by the corrosion of rouge, and who, by their
symmetry
would induce him to believe, that the
grace,
loveliest figures of Greece, in her proudest era, were re-
vived, and moving before him.

and

CHAP.

XIII.

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CHAP.

XIV.

Courts of Justice. - Public Library. — Gobelines. - Miss Lin

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wood. Garden of Plants. French Accommodation. Boot
Cleaners. Cat and Dog Shearers. Monsieur S
Monsieur S. and
Family.

--

THE english convent, or as it is called, the convent of
blue nuns, in the Rue de St. Victoire, is the only establish
ment of the kind, which throughout the republic, has sur-
vived the revolution. To what cause its exclusive protec-
tion is attributable, is not, I believe correctly known. But
though this spot of sacred seclusion, has escaped the final
stroke of extermination, it has sustained an ample share
of the general desolation. During the time of terrour, it
was converted into the crowded prison of the female nobi-
lity, who were here confined, and afterwards dragged from
its cloisters, and butchered by the guillotine, or the daggers
of assassins. I had a letter of introduction to Mrs. S-
one of the sisterhood, a lady of distinguished family in
England. I found her in the refectory. A dignified dejec-
tion overspread her countenance, and her figure seemed
much emaciated by the scenes of horrour through which she
had passed. She informed me, that when the nuns were in
a state of arrestation by the order of Robespierre, the con-

vent

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